Recent content by 5js

I end up with a DFW drilled approx 3/32" below the rears - but this is because I do not move my fence when using the block. I think the horizontal difference with the pin under the block (for rears) and the pin not under the block (for DFW) is approx 3/32". I just go with that and it seems to...

If you have yet to shave wood off the side of the car - make the side that is lifted a bit your DFW - bend this axle down (positive cant) so that it almost lifts the opposite side. Of course this depends on how much difference there is in height between the two axle holes - but for a four...

so true Scott - so true... As most have likely done - I learned this lesson the expensive way.

Adhesives for the teflon washer - I float my washer, i.e. no glue, I just make sure the teflon washer is tight on the axle so that it stays where I put it. Other may weigh in on other methods. Trimming back waterslide - if you are just putting on the flat surface - cut to fit, if you are...

I have never applied directly to the wood - I prime then paint the car white and apply the waterslide decal over white paint. One thing to remember when using waterslides - printer's don't print white - and the waterslide is translucent - so a plain white background seems to work best -

W - it seems you can now - but in the past even talking about the Block etc was voodoo. 5k - thx, I got it. So, ideally you would want to try to have it squared, but if the table was not square your axle holes would still be parallel - so relative to each other there would be not toe-in or...

John - all I use is the Block (purchased from you prior to the release of the Silver Bullet). To me it is the only tool for making precise axle holes which is required for a foundation of a fast car. Anyway - I know I'm sticking my .... out to get stomped on, and pardon my ignorance, by why...

The waterslide decals work real nice - but they can tear easily - so it takes practice and patience. I purchased my decal paper from decalpaper.com . The paper is MUCH better then the paper that comes in the testors kit. TangoPapa is another good source, but be patient if ordering from them -...

I found the above to be true as well. For league racing I always purchase my wheels - but for scout racing we cannot purchase machined wheels but we can use the shaver to correct the runout. I agree - not as good as machined wheels - but better then stock and/or sanding.

The first solenoid I used works well with the elbow latch, but for the Besttrack setup I would use this door actuator which has a ton more power.

W - not sure I follow what you are saying

Nice explanation

I'm not near the expert as others, but you inset the DFW to keep the rears centered on the rail. You want to ensure the rears don't impact the rails.

I can't remember for sure what side I put the pins in, but I believe I followed the directions and had the same issue. Putting the pins in the opposite side corrected the problem.

Sure - why not. It's just something to try - make wedge that is 7/16" in the rear and filled with lead just to see how the times compare to a 1/4" car filled with tungsten. Just something different to try