Recent content by TexasTaxi

It got mixed emotions, from the crowd. Mostly laughs, and a few ohhhhhhhhhs! One mom said, "it makes sense, now!" :)

Due to Covid, we were only allowed to use the church gym, on Saturday, so set-up started at 9:00 am. We were done, by about noon, so we thought. Our timer (new bold) was on the blitz, and after an hour of jacking with it, at race time, we decided to run the races using the software (grand prix)...

Jupiter, even though that didn't answer, it did. Thanks a bunch!

I posted a while back about not narrowing the front end for a DFW. Math and angle wise it would work, but several guys commented that you won't be able to get a 9degree bend through the hub. Something to think about.

We got our cars done, for this year's scout race. Applying everything that I've learned here, they're the two fastest cars we've built so far. 3.08 on a 42' BestTrack. We ran them about 6 passes each last night. My question is about the graphite. Typically, where are your fastest passes? First...

My jig is similar. I first cut my pockets with a CNC router (on bottom side of car). Then I put the block, in my jig, with the bottom side facing the jig; essentially cutting the top of the car off. The main difference is that I bought an adjustable slide that rides in the T-track of my table...

With my CNC Router, I draw the design in AutoCAD, save as dxf, import into their design software, then save the G-Code. Considering that the laser uses a pdf, I bet it just reads the lines on the "page". Sounds more like a laser copy cutter, than a CNC laser. Either way, if you can accurately...

I keep mine set up inside the garage area of my shop. It's an insulated metal building, but it still gets warm in there. Since the track is aluminum, heat and/or humidity shouldn't have any effect on it. I don't see why a trailer would be any different.

Did that. Lots of threads, but none, that I could find, described a process.

How do you do it? I've been pulling the axle back, until the point is just below the inner hub, dropping as much graphite as I can into the divot, then pushing the axle up and spinning it a few times. Is there a better way? I just don't feel like there's a lot of graphite getting inside the wheel.

Update ... this weekend I mad a jig, to hold the "thick" body, and run it through my tablesaw. No more worries of a lost finger!

I cut my ladder and weight pockets from the bottom, with my CNC router, out of a full thickness block. Then, I run it through the table saw, to cut it just a little thicker than I need and sand down the rest, by hand on a piece of sticky sandpaper stuck to a nice flat surface. This leaves the...

I've been putting the full block in my CNC router, cutting the ladder, then ripping off the cut part on my table saw. I don't get to crazy, and have to sand the top until I get it thin enough to make me happy. I could get 3 cars out of 1 block.

I did the same, under the guise that I'd use it for other stuff. ;) The ladder bodies that I've cut with the CNC router are amazing. I've been able to cut the weight pockets, and ladder, leaving a top (cutting the body upside down) that's so thin that it's translucent. I got one down to 7 grams...

I'm so deep into that dang hole ... too late now! ;) The SBE is the second jig that I've bought. The first was a little aluminum piece of junk! The SBE is VERY versatile. It will drill for 3 or 4 wheels touching with a variety of wheel bases. I don't think you can go wrong with that jig. I am...