Recent content by txchemist

But the cure is NOT to put weight on the raised wheel side but to shift cubes over to the DFW side- what happens is the DFW and the back NDW almost balance all the weight on them so you move weight away from the back NDW to put a more equal load on the back two wheels.

Well- we might be still looking at the same thing. After you fine tune where you put the cubes in front of the axle, and you now have max speed, if you measure the weight on each back wheel, I might suggest 3 possible ranges. A Balanced ( 0 to 5 grams difference between back wheels) B slightly...

Here is my present inventory of bars for behind the axle- Some builders even order a specific weight in grams which I will attempt to do for everyone and I will let you know if that inventory is gone and what the closest might be. SH is super heavy. GP is ground and polished.

So if a Cub uses a hand drill into the slots, without any mechanical guide- and doesn't get it perfect, it will have some cant to it. If he drilled a bunch of bodies, some of them would have both back wheels at a 1 degree cant. That same body with almost perfect front axles will none the less...

Most kids have seen racing series on TV where the points are accumulated over many races and then a champ is determined, they will get it faster than about 1/2 the adults.

The dynamic will also tell you when you do not need to run anymore races. I often turn off the time display and just show place while computer keeps time for brackets, WAY more interest because they do not see the time until race is over.

If you keep it dry- no. But many blends that add moly (molybdenum disulphide) can get slower from room humidity alone. This is one of the lowest cost things you can replace often and give away your old stuff to someone else. win-win

If you first put some metal tape on the wood, and then the 3M VHB tape and then weights, it will not come off. I use 3m VHB RP25 a thin but super strong tape. I have seen it for sale in smaller quantities on eBay.

Like wolfram said- grind the head of the nail down to a 0.120 mil dia. and it works great. Most the box stock guys now doing that.

That was the reason to design the TX axle, so Packs with silly rules ( school pack near me) would think they had removed all possible speed and then wham- a few cars just continue to beat everyone every year. Going on 38 years of coaching winners in that pack with wild rule changes almost every...

Yes, exactly. Are you prohibited from bending an axle so you are looking to build without drift?

This might be another way to look at it. Imagine we have built our car with the back axle 5/8" from the back of the car, and the front axle is 4 5/8" away- longer wheel base by 1/4". We have the weights all in place and note the DFW comes in at 15 grams. We test the car and come up with a nice...

Assuming you have moved the back axle back to 5/8" from the typical 7/8" location, but wheelbase is 4 3/8", but the idea of how light you can get on the DFW is a guide.

There was a bit of speed to gain with adding that last 2 grams. Hard to do at check in, but something like chips and scotch tape and a bit of metal tape over them can make that last bit easy to get. Extra weigh gains you 0.001 sec. Now if you are running 0.75" COG, you can probably drop that...