Recent content by zigzag

Track still for sale - will sell track and timer for $500. Track has been sanded, has smooth transitions and is ready to keep you busy through the COVID19 sequester.

I have linked to the one I have (2 speed Benchtop Mill / Drill Machine) - it served me well which I don't often say about HF products. I think there is literally one plant in China that makes mini mills for all of the various players that sell similar products. I made a custom jig to hold the...

Looking for $500. Also have a HF mini mill and a couple of nice sanders if you or anyone else is interested.

Hi Derrick - how about $500 for track and timer. I also have a couple of nice sanders and a mini mill for routing the cars if you would be interested.

I have a 42ft single lane best track with the leveling kit and a Micro K3 timer I am selling. Please message me if interested. Local pickup in Charlotte update - selling track and timer for $500. Track has been sanded, has smooth transitions and is race ready.

That’s the other big variable - number of car bodies that actually move forward and race. Ignoring for a moment I am not racing at the moment - no more that 1 out of 4 bodies ever makes it through to race ready in my world.

just curious how long it takes folks to cut out a car body and what they use to route out the body. Takes me 35min with a HF mini mill (a lot of that time just getting the rear pockets just big enough while not being too big). About 5-7 min to sand. Pre-covering takes me just about 45min per...

That was exactly what I thought as well -

Well - I don’t think there is a ‘womens’ league but I did get beat by Tre’s daughter (think it was Tres daughter ) when she raced pro (my 10 year daughter still gives my grief about it). You should definitely give pro racing a go - and you have given me one more reason to invest in a CNC router.

Numbering the individual cubes - you are going to fit right in around here.

Any question that starts with “should I” and contains “derby worx” ends in the same answer = no.

file this one under preference - better to drill the body first and then do the axles in case the body flexes during routing.

First of all - looks like you have the right tool for the job.....nice Nice clean work on the body- I think most pros would just have a much thinner rear axle cross beam and use tungsten cubes and putty to weight and tune. That said, I think you have plenty of thickness in the rear axle cross...

So you are going to need a way to cut the weight pockets out for your weight. Lots of ways to do this - but one way is to mill the pockets out. Or just buy precut bodies from DD4H. Here is a mini mill https://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html. I assume...

Great question - my 2 cents. Dermel with drill press mount is bascally mandatory (although I am sure people will say you can just use a hand drill). All in I think that’s about 200ish A good sander - like the porter cable bench sander Lowe’s sells for around 175. Band saw - 150ish I have...