3 - Wheel tread trueing?

CastleCrasher

Pinewood Ninja
Jan 27, 2020
34
12
8
Tazwell
Wheel tread trueing. A couple years ago I bought the "pro wheel shaver" aka $40-60 bore ream. Lesson learned. Obviously the best way is with correct technique on a lathe. Unfortunately a lathe is out of the budget but is on the wish list even before pwd, lathes are fun, also the source of my first time needing stitches. Although I'd love to buy some vendor trued and light wheels, that defeats the spirit of the sport for a cub scout. I do have the Derby Worx pro wheel mandrel which I know isn't centered on the bore. Should I use that? Drill speed high or low? Dremel high or low? I found that a 2.5mm (= 0.0984") drill bit shank is press fit tight in the bore. I could chuck the bit backwards (or simply hack off the cutting flute side) and turn the wheel. Should the final tread stay in rough cut or get smoothed/polished? What about the inner edge of the tread? Should it get shaved flat, so it's perpendicular to the tread, or stay rounded like stock? Rounded seems like it would handle track rail imperfections better. Suggestions please. Thanks in advance.
 
You would be better served to get 4 or 5 kits & sort through those axles & wheels.
Purchase an axle polish & wheel bore polish kit, they have everything you need.
Any cutting or shaping is just going to turn out " less than desirable"
 
We've all been in your shoes and have tools that turned out to be less than expected.
Throw the wheel shaver away. The wheel mandrel isn't much better.
If you think buying trued wheels is not in the spirit, then take Jupiter's advice and buy a extra wheels and sort out the good wheels. A wheel run out gauge will be money well spent if you don't want to buy trued wheels.
 
Used to be that some molds were significantly worse than others. More recently, that doesn’t seem to be true anymore. You will find good and bad out of any mold number. Just buy several sets and pick the best ones. A runout gauge will help.