45 Degree or Not
- Thread starter aircooled
- Start date
45 degree are very easy... LB style .. There is entirely too much work there for myself... I Would keep it simple and learn the basics.. And go from there ..
45s look cool and eliminate the ndfw making contact with the track. I would run a pin but if the car is right it may not be needed.
That being said, my regular build cars are faster. Probably because I have built more of them.
That being said, my regular build cars are faster. Probably because I have built more of them.
I think one could say a perfect triangle would be the fastest. Since we know we can't do that, but a 45 car would be that much closer? hmm food for thought??
I agree with hurricane, the 45° looks cool. Anyone have a thread or anything saying how to do this because I'd love to make one.
I like the 45 design because I can make the front of the car have a smaller width.
Here are a few tips I've learned along the way from some top notch builders.
Just like any car I like to get my DFW set up so the rears run centered on the track (using a track or test section). Quicktime taught me that tip on the first race I attended. I will then start sanding the NDFW at a 45 in stages checking how close the 45 degree wheel is to the rail. Kinser taught me that one. When I get it as close as desired you can see if a guide pin is necessary or not.
Another tip I learned form Kinser is to use the stainless axles for the 45 degree axle. The BSA axles tend to break much easier at that larger degree. Also, I highly recommend the Down4Derby raised wheel. I guess these tips could apply to any build, but hope it helps.
Here are a few tips I've learned along the way from some top notch builders.
Just like any car I like to get my DFW set up so the rears run centered on the track (using a track or test section). Quicktime taught me that tip on the first race I attended. I will then start sanding the NDFW at a 45 in stages checking how close the 45 degree wheel is to the rail. Kinser taught me that one. When I get it as close as desired you can see if a guide pin is necessary or not.
Another tip I learned form Kinser is to use the stainless axles for the 45 degree axle. The BSA axles tend to break much easier at that larger degree. Also, I highly recommend the Down4Derby raised wheel. I guess these tips could apply to any build, but hope it helps.
I have tried both ways. Don't think there is any difference, but because each body, even if you think they are exactly the same, still usually post different times. So who's to know?
My SS normal build (w/o 45 wheel, AND w/o the PineCar NDFW) turned 2.9432 and 2.9424 on the red lane in the March Ice race #2.
Currently that's my best car. None of my others are within 1/100th, including 2 45's with and without the PineCar small wheel, as well as another SS with a PineCar wheel in normal position.
AND incidentally, my car "Upsized" DOES NOT use wheel weights. Go figure!
My SS normal build (w/o 45 wheel, AND w/o the PineCar NDFW) turned 2.9432 and 2.9424 on the red lane in the March Ice race #2.
Currently that's my best car. None of my others are within 1/100th, including 2 45's with and without the PineCar small wheel, as well as another SS with a PineCar wheel in normal position.
AND incidentally, my car "Upsized" DOES NOT use wheel weights. Go figure!
Too Cool the 45 degree car I had last year was very fast. That was until it flipped in the stop section. After that it was a turd. I ended up putting a guide pin in it to keep it from flipping again. I like the looks of them and I feel they are faster than a regular build. It's all in the set up.
I am in the middle of another 45 build. Go a feeling it's going to be another fast one just got find a way make sure that it doesn't flip.
I am in the middle of another 45 build. Go a feeling it's going to be another fast one just got find a way make sure that it doesn't flip.
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