Axel question
- Thread starter cara424
- Start date
I would throw those axles out and some bsa speed axles..replicas they look the same but are much better
I agree the replica of bsa axles or any other aftermaket bsa look alike axles are better. But if the rules state that bsa axles must be used then it goes against the scout oath and/or scout law to use them imo.
Cara424. We have always carefully removed all of the crimp marks and the burrs under the head while trying to maintain the largest diameter possible. I have read where some say to leave the crimp marks so as to leave the axle a larger diameter. I have not personally tested this to see if its better though.
Cara424. We have always carefully removed all of the crimp marks and the burrs under the head while trying to maintain the largest diameter possible. I have read where some say to leave the crimp marks so as to leave the axle a larger diameter. I have not personally tested this to see if its better though.
It wasn't that long ago that people suggested just sanding over the crimps. I think the goal was to keep the diameter large
Our scout rules require using the axles and wheels that come with the kit and we are staying within that rule. We used to remove the crimp marks with a file and then polish the axle once they were gone. Problem is this reduced the diameter of the axle. This year Ive turned the axles on a lathe under magnification and what I have found after turning several axles is that, although not round, the raised crimp marks appear to be close to the same diameter as the clean end of the axle. So in effect, the "raised" marks don't appear to be raised so much as the spaces in between them seem to be compressed. So the plan this year is to leave the crimp marks in place. I'm dialing in the cutting tool in until it just makes contact with the crimp mark closest to the head and then cutting the rest of the axle from there.
Now keep in mind I'm not a pro and I have yet to run a car with axles prepped this way. This is just my two cents about what I'm finding while working with the BSA axles from the kit. Hope it helps.
Now keep in mind I'm not a pro and I have yet to run a car with axles prepped this way. This is just my two cents about what I'm finding while working with the BSA axles from the kit. Hope it helps.
I have my boys leave the crimp marks and just file off the burrs under the axle head. They also polish lightly to leave the axles as big as possible. Figured that out once my youngest started racing. He's not as strong as his big brother so he polished with less pressure. After his car beat his brother's we started doing them all lighter. lol
Just turn the axle so the shiniest face is down so the wheel can ride on it.
Just turn the axle so the shiniest face is down so the wheel can ride on it.
Agree. Leave the crimp marks (but polish them). You can put a k-house groove in the rear axles and with a screwdriver, you can "tune" the rear by rotating the rear axles until you get the best speed. If you polish out the crimp marks, the axles could become too thin and ultimately could cause the rear of the car to sway.
We're prepping axles tonight...I'm very intrigued by the idea of not filing off the crimp marks.
We're running graphite and do not have access to a test track. 3 wheel rail rider, drilled canted rears in the rear, bent axle in the front...
Reading another thread someone suggested 2500 grit and up after filing off the flanges under the head. I've only got access to up to 3000, so we'd go 2500, 3000, then metal polish and pledge.
Anyone have any thoughts regarding running the two bumps down vs the three bumps down vs bumps side to side? Or where to put the bend for the DFW's axle in relation to the bumps?
We're running graphite and do not have access to a test track. 3 wheel rail rider, drilled canted rears in the rear, bent axle in the front...
Reading another thread someone suggested 2500 grit and up after filing off the flanges under the head. I've only got access to up to 3000, so we'd go 2500, 3000, then metal polish and pledge.
Anyone have any thoughts regarding running the two bumps down vs the three bumps down vs bumps side to side? Or where to put the bend for the DFW's axle in relation to the bumps?
I wish I could remember which way the bumps should be but in the end, I tune the rear alignment by twisting the axles. Scout axles are bent - or nearly all of them are bent. Sometimes, a car may even wiggle because of this. If you put a k-house groove in the rear axles, you can "tune" the rear by rotating the rear axles until you get the best speed. I would start by recording the car's speed. Rotate the left rear axle 1/4 turn clockwise and again, record the car's speed. Do this until left rear axle is in its original position. At that time, rotate the right rear axle 1/4 turn clockwise. Record the car's speed. Rotate the left rear axle 1/4 turn clockwise and again, record the car's speed. Do this until left rear axle is in its original position. After 16 passes, you should have a good idea where the rear axles need to be.
For the DFW, I would run the bump east and west, not north and south (e.g. not up and down). BR probably can confirm this (I'm not sure what was meant by shiny side down in his post)...
For the DFW, I would run the bump east and west, not north and south (e.g. not up and down). BR probably can confirm this (I'm not sure what was meant by shiny side down in his post)...
We put the bumps fore and aft on all the axles. When I said shiny side down, what I mean is that out of the two smooth faces between the bumps, one will look better than the other so put the shiniest side down. 
Similar threads
