so im fairly new to pinewood. But I’m looking for the best axles that are able to be used for a BSA event. The rules do not necessarily say the SS axles are not allowed. It really just says metal axles but I don’t want to buy SS and fail inspection. Looking for straight oversized axles. Unless someone out there has a better route to go
Axles
- Thread starter Jason Rossler
- Start date
Now that I’m looking closer I may be screwed.
The ONLY axles allowed are those axles from Official Pinewood Derby Car Kits #17006 0r # 17000. Or Official Pinewood Derby Wheels and Axles #17553 thru #17557 (black and colored wheels). Burrs on the underside of the axle head and ridges on the axle shaft (if any) may be removed. If the underside of axle head is to be tapered, be careful not to reduce the diameter of the axle head. Polishing of the axle shaft is allowed. The mating surface of the axle may not be bushed, sleeved, or lined. Only a dry non-permanent spray- on, brushed-on, or dusted lubrication compound is allowed. Bushings, sleeves, permanent coatings, thrust washers, and enclosed axles (with hubcaps) are prohibited.
Thank you DD4H. I have a couple questions for you since you are one of the best it sounds like. On those axles you recommended, what would you say is the best prep for them. I keep reading many different posts. How high of a grit is sandpaper would you recommend? Use pledge or no? Also when drilling new axle holes, do you think it is best to have as long of a wheelbase as possible? I have seen some of you cars, and it seems like you take the back wheel back as far as you can, but the front is not fully extended.what do you recommend? Any assistance would be greatly apreciated.
I am no expert, but I will throw in my 2c.
With those axles, I use grits 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 and then use the DD4H axle polish. About 10 seconds with each gritt up to 3000 and then about 20 seconds with the 3000 (using plenty of water with all). Polish to a mirror finish with polish and leather strop. Yes on the Pledge.
I do believe that DD4H makes his cars with 4 3/4 inch wheel base, with the rears as far back as practical. I have not tested this, but I am confident that he has.
You can spend days on this site doing searches and reading posts to gain information. I strongly suggest that you keep paper and pen handy to take notes.
With those axles, I use grits 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 and then use the DD4H axle polish. About 10 seconds with each gritt up to 3000 and then about 20 seconds with the 3000 (using plenty of water with all). Polish to a mirror finish with polish and leather strop. Yes on the Pledge.
I do believe that DD4H makes his cars with 4 3/4 inch wheel base, with the rears as far back as practical. I have not tested this, but I am confident that he has.
You can spend days on this site doing searches and reading posts to gain information. I strongly suggest that you keep paper and pen handy to take notes.
Thank you Flockshot for the info. I appreciate yours and anyone else’s input on this and other things such as wheel bores. I have gained a lot of knowledge being on this site and being a novice there is a lot to learn. What polish do you use on the axles?
DD4h axle polish. I am also fond of his 3 part wheel prep. He has done the leg work and testing to find the best he can. It’s just good business to do that. If I find anything better I would say so by so far I like his stuff the best
Flockshot is right on. On those axles they polish up very fast just dont use the lower grits. My wheel bore prep is the best hands down.
I see two axle preps - one for oil and one for graphite. What's the difference in the finish?
Thanks for the info guys. Another question that I am sure DD4H can answer. And anyone else is more than welcome. How much of a increase would larger diameter angles have over a standard axle? I know that .093 and .092 axles are out there but made of stainless. I am just curious if it is that much or not.
Instead of hunting around for thicker axles, is there a way to say nickle or zinc plate them or line the wheel bore to reduce it's inside diameter?
You can nickle plate in jar with some vinegar, salt, a chunk of nickle and a power source. However, you are putting a "permanent coating" on the axle (prohibited in above rules) and also it will not plate evenly all around the axle. Just say'n.
Ok... the garage chemist in me was trying to figure out how to thicken up axles and get them consistently above .091 or so when you have to use the ones that come in the kit box...
Is there a way to reduce the delta between the scout car axles and the inner wheel bore and stay within the rules of no permanent coatings or bushings (or just buying them)?
I think your time and effort would be better spent on the prep process etc. rather than trying to figure out how to enlarge the axles. If you show up with axles you've added material to, they're either going to say they're after market, and you'll be DQ'd, or they'll say you basically created a bushing, and you'll be DQ'd.
There are plenty of other places to find speed!
There are plenty of other places to find speed!
I my limited experience i have found wheels that have a .096 bore and others that have a .097 bore, so that is one thing.
Also, consider the amount of material you are removing when polishing the axles.
Additionally, there are some wheels that try to vibrate out of your hand when you spin them on the axle, and just a few that will spin smoothly.
A pro racer (who's opinion I respect) posted that speed is found in the alignment and the wheels, so that is where I am concentrating my efforts. If the wheel doesn't bounce or wobble, on the axle, and runs smooth as silk, i consider that to be more significant than the axle/bore diameter difference.
Just my 2c.
Also, consider the amount of material you are removing when polishing the axles.
Additionally, there are some wheels that try to vibrate out of your hand when you spin them on the axle, and just a few that will spin smoothly.
A pro racer (who's opinion I respect) posted that speed is found in the alignment and the wheels, so that is where I am concentrating my efforts. If the wheel doesn't bounce or wobble, on the axle, and runs smooth as silk, i consider that to be more significant than the axle/bore diameter difference.
Just my 2c.
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