Just need a little clarification. Is the BASX class the same as box stock. I don't see the box stock class listed on the NPWDRL website.
BASX/ Box stock
- Thread starter STEEL WHEELS
- Start date
They are different classes. And, you're right, Box Stock isn't listed there. However, if you go to NPWDRL.boards.net (the forum specifically for the NPWDRL), you'll see the classes and rules in the Racing Classes section.
Thanks, that answered alot of my questions. Do you know will any modle that is 1/25 or 1/24 scale meat the measurement requirements for the street rod class. I don't want to buy some models and open up just to find out there to big.
Almost every model out there in 1/25 scale fits. And most of the 1/24 scale models work too. The '69 Charger is a hair too long. '57 Chevy in 1/25 works, but not in 1/24.
Revell models list the completed length on their model boxes. If you see a model you like, but don't know the length of it, you can Google "car-of-choice length" and then divide the length by 24 or 25 to get the model length.
I spend waaay too much time thinking about the SR class (and then race as the caboose /images/boards/smilies/frown.gif ), so feel free to ask me any questions on 'em.
Revell models list the completed length on their model boxes. If you see a model you like, but don't know the length of it, you can Google "car-of-choice length" and then divide the length by 24 or 25 to get the model length.
I spend waaay too much time thinking about the SR class (and then race as the caboose /images/boards/smilies/frown.gif ), so feel free to ask me any questions on 'em.
Hey Crash, glad this class was brought up. i was interested in it because i like the look of the cars on the track. i was wondering what the process is for attaching the plastic model to the wood frame. is there a tutorial somewhere you could point me to
There are several ways of doing it, but the method I use is one that QuickTime had shown in pics (no longer available). Essentially, you mount wood/balsa strips to the sides of your model body with two mounting holes in it. Then, add pegs/screws/something to the side of your chassis that then mates to the holes.
A view of the mounts I used on an SR a couple years ago:
On this particular example, I mounted the side pods too high up in the body, which then required a rather thick chassis so as to have enough material in it to mount the screws (1/4" hex head screws that then mate into 1/4" holes in the side pods).
When you build it, mount the side pods at the bottom of the model body, with the holes drilled near/at the bottom of the pods. This will give you the most leeway in chassis thickness (think weight). In most of the builds I've done and tested building, the axle line for the wheels lines up pretty closely with the bottom of the body shell.
Also, you will be well served to make the chassis more of a ladder style instead of the thick block you see here. You can then add a piece of 1/32" ply on the bottom to cover everything and clean up the airflow.
I do know that others have screwed through the front and/or sides of the body into the chassis, like BR's Mustang (did you ever run it, BracketRacer?):
And others have glued mounting blocks under the hood and trunk of the model body, and then screwed into those (either with wood screws or zertz(?) fasteners)
(I hope it's okay that I share this pic, Bill. I don't see any industry secret here.)
I've heard of velcro (used instead of the zertz fastener setup), tape, and others. But these are the ones I know work.
A search of the forums for "Street Rod mount body" turns up several methods by mention (not so much by picture).
A view of the mounts I used on an SR a couple years ago:
On this particular example, I mounted the side pods too high up in the body, which then required a rather thick chassis so as to have enough material in it to mount the screws (1/4" hex head screws that then mate into 1/4" holes in the side pods).
When you build it, mount the side pods at the bottom of the model body, with the holes drilled near/at the bottom of the pods. This will give you the most leeway in chassis thickness (think weight). In most of the builds I've done and tested building, the axle line for the wheels lines up pretty closely with the bottom of the body shell.
Also, you will be well served to make the chassis more of a ladder style instead of the thick block you see here. You can then add a piece of 1/32" ply on the bottom to cover everything and clean up the airflow.
I do know that others have screwed through the front and/or sides of the body into the chassis, like BR's Mustang (did you ever run it, BracketRacer?):
And others have glued mounting blocks under the hood and trunk of the model body, and then screwed into those (either with wood screws or zertz(?) fasteners)
(I hope it's okay that I share this pic, Bill. I don't see any industry secret here.)
I've heard of velcro (used instead of the zertz fastener setup), tape, and others. But these are the ones I know work.
A search of the forums for "Street Rod mount body" turns up several methods by mention (not so much by picture).
Crash, I entered that Mustang along with a Thunderbird and a Chrysler Atlantic last year in Omaha. The Mustang ran 2.9632 to finish in 17th place. The T-bird had a bad case of the wobbles at home but I found that I could stage it crossed up at the venue and it ran straight, earning the 10th spot with a 2.9547. (Hey, Top 10 at Nationals- I can't complain!) The Atlantic was loose and I couldn't help it with anything I tried, it ended up 20th with a 2.9785. I took them all apart just recently to check the drill and refit them for this year, the Mustang and T-bird drills look good but the Atlantic didn't pass so it likely won't be done in time to race at this year's MA. I really thought that car would do well so I'll re-do it over the summer along with a couple other new bodies I picked up this winter. It's a fun class to build and watch but it causes me a lot of head scratching trying to figure out the best way to mount the different bodies.
When it comes to mounting a chassis to the plastic models they are all different. I don't think there are two the same, similar but not the same. You need to experiment with different techniques until the car sits low, nothing drags on the tracks and the wheels turn free without touching plastic. I like to keep the bottom of the car closed up to avoid air turbulence while not adding too much weight. When I first got started I looked at a lot of cars to see how others tackled the mounting, and I didn't find many the same, unless the cars are the same make and model. I have corvettes from different years that cannot be mounted the same. So, in short, mount the chassis and see how it works, if necessary, cut it apart and try again...eventually you will know which way to go as soon as you see the car.
Good luck
Robert
Good luck
Robert
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