I just purchased the silver bullet extreme, but I have no idea how I’m supposed to use it? There are 10 holes (5 in each side). Which holes are the best to use? How far apart should my axle holes be? How far should they be from the front and back of the car? Thanks in advance for your help!
Best way to use the Silver Bullet Extreme
- Thread starter Prozach2
- Start date
guess it doesn't come with a guide that tells you how to use the holes for various wheelbases. Guess they need to print one.
My understanding is that you can use it to achieve 4.75" 5" and 5.25" wheelbases
Yeah, no directions at all. Which wheel base, if any, is optimal? Based on the directions 5kidsracing posted on this website, the wheels should be 6/8” from the front and 5/8” from the back, but that’s not even an option on the SBE. So, should after I pick a wheel base, how far should it be from the front and back? I’d be really surprised if there isn’t a YouTube video or something spelling this out.
I’ve seen the video, but still have no idea which holes I should use and how far from the front and back of the car the wheels should be.
well I always mark my rear axle 5/8" from back edge and then measure from that line forward. So looks like you gotta dig a ruler out and measure between the rear bushings and front bushings to figure out which one is 4.75" or 5" whichever you want and then place your rear axle mark on said rear bushing site
I have owned the Silver Bullet and the Silver Bullet Pro for several years.
I drill every Cub Scouts block that comes (25-35) on our build day, just to try and keep everyone somewhat competitive and having fun on race day.
While I do not own The Silver Bullet Extreme, it looks to adds to the to SB Pro by allowing you to drill the DFW axle hole without un clamping the body from the jig after drilling the rear canted axles holes.
1.The main benefit is making sure that the 3 contact wheels are drilled the same height from the track surface...
2 Being able to drill the raised axle hole without using a drill press...
If you are using 2 roles of cubes behind the rear axle then use the very first position of the 3 degree cant, and pick one of the predetermined wheelbase on the jig, or just un clamp the block and slide the jig where you want to drill your front axle holes.
IMO, There is no exact wheel base that performs better than another on every car, they all have their pro and cons, and it all depends on your rule set for your race, condition of the track and the weighting and design of your car.
And the biggest factor is what the Cub Scout wants his or her cars wheelbase to be. Period.
A shorter wheelbase will stay on the hill longer accelerating but a longer wheelbase is more stable for a heavily rear weighted car and or on a rough unlevel Cub Scout track.
We have won Districts with a 5.25, 5.0 & 4.875 wheelbases.
Keep in mind that if you are going to use front fenders you will need a shorter wheelbase.
I drill every Cub Scouts block that comes (25-35) on our build day, just to try and keep everyone somewhat competitive and having fun on race day.
While I do not own The Silver Bullet Extreme, it looks to adds to the to SB Pro by allowing you to drill the DFW axle hole without un clamping the body from the jig after drilling the rear canted axles holes.
1.The main benefit is making sure that the 3 contact wheels are drilled the same height from the track surface...
2 Being able to drill the raised axle hole without using a drill press...
If you are using 2 roles of cubes behind the rear axle then use the very first position of the 3 degree cant, and pick one of the predetermined wheelbase on the jig, or just un clamp the block and slide the jig where you want to drill your front axle holes.
IMO, There is no exact wheel base that performs better than another on every car, they all have their pro and cons, and it all depends on your rule set for your race, condition of the track and the weighting and design of your car.
And the biggest factor is what the Cub Scout wants his or her cars wheelbase to be. Period.
A shorter wheelbase will stay on the hill longer accelerating but a longer wheelbase is more stable for a heavily rear weighted car and or on a rough unlevel Cub Scout track.
We have won Districts with a 5.25, 5.0 & 4.875 wheelbases.
Keep in mind that if you are going to use front fenders you will need a shorter wheelbase.
Basically, we tried to build the ladder body to the specifications on five kids racing.com. A picture is attached.
The rear wheels are 5/8” from the back and used the holes on the SBE marked 3 degrees. The front dominant wheel was drilled in the farthest hole to the front labeled 0 degrees on the SBE. I then scooted the car back and used the hole labeled L to drill the front wheel on the other side. I’m assuming that is the hole that is raised.
Please let me know if you know whether or not I did this correctly. The race is Friday, so if I butchered it, we still have a little time to do a new one. Thanks!
The rear wheels are 5/8” from the back and used the holes on the SBE marked 3 degrees. The front dominant wheel was drilled in the farthest hole to the front labeled 0 degrees on the SBE. I then scooted the car back and used the hole labeled L to drill the front wheel on the other side. I’m assuming that is the hole that is raised.
Please let me know if you know whether or not I did this correctly. The race is Friday, so if I butchered it, we still have a little time to do a new one. Thanks!
Attachments
Sounds like you did it correct to me.
You did put the bottom of the car/block on the SBE when you drilled correct?
That would be the only concern...
Yes, the bottom of the car was on the SBE. Thanks for your help. I’ll let you guys know how it does.
Yeah just insert the body were you want the rears lock in drill. Verify rules. Drill the required Base by rules. If no rules use the 5 1/4" for safety or the shortest offering for speed. You have to tune it no matter what.
