I know you folks see these types of post all the time and it may seem redundant, but I’ve been searching around trying to learn as this is my 7 year old son first year in scouts.
I quickly put together a 3 wheel wedge car with a canopy weight, bent in a vice polished axles for his pack race. He won. Fastest car on every pass. Now we have districts.
I ordered a used kit of derby parts/tools on eBay. Virtually all common tools are included for prep.
I have a few questions:
Many suggest straight axles in an angled hole, rather than bent rear axles. I understand this is to ease alignment and reduce variables. I will have the typical axle straightener/bender die that’s hit with a hammer. I do not have a drill press. My other option for drilling angled holes would be shimming the body at a 3° angle in the jig and using the pro body tool to drill. Has anyone tried this before? Is it advisable?
Nail heads. Does reducing their diameter make sense? What’s the ideal size of the nail head?
Considering nail head diameter, is a coned outer hub or simply removing the step a better choice? I have the pro hub tool to prep these surfaces.
Wheel base: I don’t have the rules yet, but if I do need to use factory slots or spacing, should I cut the back of the car off and glue to the front, shifting wheel base back? What is the ideal spacing from the rear of the body?
Assuming washers can not be used, is super glue and graphite mix glue and buffed on the contact area the best route?
I’m not sure if I can run oil, probably not, is there a preferred graphite to use? My other car I used hardware store graphite mixed with alcohol and packed it into the bore.
Body shape. I used a modified wedge design with the com about 3/4”. I couldn’t get an exact balance on the blade I was trying to balance on. I don’t have one of the legit tools. I see many use a super thin 3/8- 5/8” design. Is that a better platform? I will use whatever tungsten weight fits best for body selected.
Other worthy comments:
I’m a skilled woodworker and have virtually any tool at my disposal except a drill press. I sold mine as I rarely used it and needed space in my shop. My capabilities are strong in general.
I plan to build 2-3 cars to test at a race in 2 weeks and take the fastest one to districts. I’m hoping the track owner and some fellow racers can help my cause or tuning/tweaking.
I plan to shave outer wheels down to round, polish bores, dress inner outer hubs and polish bores. Axles will get all the love too. I understand these elements are paramount.
That’s all I can think of at the moment. Thanks for any guidance and support.
I quickly put together a 3 wheel wedge car with a canopy weight, bent in a vice polished axles for his pack race. He won. Fastest car on every pass. Now we have districts.
I ordered a used kit of derby parts/tools on eBay. Virtually all common tools are included for prep.
I have a few questions:
Many suggest straight axles in an angled hole, rather than bent rear axles. I understand this is to ease alignment and reduce variables. I will have the typical axle straightener/bender die that’s hit with a hammer. I do not have a drill press. My other option for drilling angled holes would be shimming the body at a 3° angle in the jig and using the pro body tool to drill. Has anyone tried this before? Is it advisable?
Nail heads. Does reducing their diameter make sense? What’s the ideal size of the nail head?
Considering nail head diameter, is a coned outer hub or simply removing the step a better choice? I have the pro hub tool to prep these surfaces.
Wheel base: I don’t have the rules yet, but if I do need to use factory slots or spacing, should I cut the back of the car off and glue to the front, shifting wheel base back? What is the ideal spacing from the rear of the body?
Assuming washers can not be used, is super glue and graphite mix glue and buffed on the contact area the best route?
I’m not sure if I can run oil, probably not, is there a preferred graphite to use? My other car I used hardware store graphite mixed with alcohol and packed it into the bore.
Body shape. I used a modified wedge design with the com about 3/4”. I couldn’t get an exact balance on the blade I was trying to balance on. I don’t have one of the legit tools. I see many use a super thin 3/8- 5/8” design. Is that a better platform? I will use whatever tungsten weight fits best for body selected.
Other worthy comments:
I’m a skilled woodworker and have virtually any tool at my disposal except a drill press. I sold mine as I rarely used it and needed space in my shop. My capabilities are strong in general.
I plan to build 2-3 cars to test at a race in 2 weeks and take the fastest one to districts. I’m hoping the track owner and some fellow racers can help my cause or tuning/tweaking.
I plan to shave outer wheels down to round, polish bores, dress inner outer hubs and polish bores. Axles will get all the love too. I understand these elements are paramount.
That’s all I can think of at the moment. Thanks for any guidance and support.