Car is cut now the details

Jan 28, 2012
153
1
16
Texas
Well I got two cars cut last night from one block. car 1 is a shallow wedge design that my son wanted. I used the block to drill the axle holes and after that I cut it with my old black and decker band saw. rough off the saw a threw some wheels and axles on and could see the cant on the rear (much better than bending). I put it on the scale and had to add 2.8oz of tungston. I then used the block to find my COM. I was aiming for 5/8 to 3/4 but ended up with 7/8. I have not cut and weight pockets on the bottom of th car and will be doing so tonight. I expect to have nothing under the car between the axles but all the weight is at the rear right behind the axle. Am I in the rang i should be? How much will paint add. Last do you guys put the weight in for the final time before or after paint? I will get some pictures up tonight.
 
Nothing wrong with a 7/8” Com, I am surprised that all of the weight is behind the rear axle. I am guessing you are pretty front heavy since you are only adding 2.8 oz. Maybe a couple pictures will clear that up. Installing the weight is a personal choice, some racers leave it loose and adjust during tuning. I actually glue mine in prior to drilling my axle holes, but I am probably in the minority.

When cutting your weight pockets make sure you leave a good amount of wood between the axles to keep your car all lined up.
 
If you used 3 coats of rattle can primer and 6 coats of rattle can paint and 8 coats of rattle can clear I would be in shock if you were over 5 grams of weight in paint. I use professional automtive grade which is thicker and when all said and done the most my paint has ever weighed was 2 grams. Hope this helps
 
It would be best to use less wood so that the added tungsten is at least 3.6 ounces. A car that is 5/16" thick or even 3/8" thick should acomplish this just fine and still be strong.
 
I am still trying to learn how to cut cars thin. My band saw is not very good and the blad moves and i do not always get a straight cut so i have to give myself some room for error. I hope for next year that i will have a new scroll saw.
 
band saw is the way to go. Cut it 1/2" thick and sand from there. or 3/8" thick and sand from there.
 
Stay with the Band saw, or if you don't like yours, buy a new one. I have a Scroll Saw and it really struggles to cut through a block. I have tried different blades, speeds, and does not help. I actually go to my neighbor's (We're both Cub Scout Leaders) and borrow his Band Saw. Once he does the first cut through the block, I can go home and finish making oval shaped cuts with my Scroll saw. I have a Delta 16 inch and it's great for what it was designed for, but a BSA block pushes it. A better scroll saw may have different results but I am impatient and a Band saw is much quicker and easier.

It did a really horrible job on a block, it was uneven and messed up. I just sanded it a little bit, painted it with a Gold lacquer and it looks like a Gold brick. The kids git a kick out of it, it's ugly, but it's fast!
 
You may need a new blade. Timberwolf. 10-12 tooth. Very thin. I think 3/8". Woodcraft store will be able to help you pick it out.