Chainsaw

B_Regal Racing

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Pro Racer
Apr 1, 2014
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Yup. That embodies the noise that you will hear when putting a 5 degree bend in the FDW axle using stock BSA wheels with the fluting.
 
bracketracer said:
That would fit with your screen name!
Funny, but my screen name was derived from a car I used to drive, an old 1978 "Buick Regal." I've been using it forever; just tacked on "racing" here. It was horrible looking car; no wheel covers, sprayed painted in places, a fair amount of surface rust, and no interior. The heater and AM radio did work though, and mechanically, it was sound (cars that I used to know how to fix). I kept it up to a few years ago just to annoy my co-workers.

Decreased the bend in the DFW axle (2 deg) hoping to loose the noise, and maybe gain some speed. We shall see...
 
Mount that wheel in the drill and sand off the tread bumps. Be careful in mounting it though, you don't want to pinch the hub too tightly. It's something I've done before with some success. Don't get too aggressive in trying to remove the bumps.... slow and steady wins the race here.
 
It is a BASX, and I did leave the fluting alone. By shallowing the bend in the DFW axle, I gained a 100th and all but eliminated the noise and vibration. Not enough to challenge for the top spot, but perfecting the art of the build, gaining a bit of speed, little by little.

As a side note, I have removed fluting before just as GX said, but I usually ruin more wheels then save. I wind up removing the fluting, but the wheel bore becomes deformed because of too much pressure by the chuck. It is tricky (for me anyway). It is easier for me to buy the DD4H Cheetahs with the NPWDRL mod.
 
B_Regal Racing said:
It is a BASX, and I did leave the fluting alone. By shallowing the bend in the DFW axle, I gained a 100th and all but eliminated the noise and vibration. Not enough to challenge for the top spot, but perfecting the art of the build, gaining a bit of speed, little by little.

As a side note, I have removed fluting before just as GX said, but I usually ruin more wheels then save. I wind up removing the fluting, but the wheel bore becomes deformed because of too much pressure by the chuck. It is tricky (for me anyway). It is easier for me to buy the DD4H Cheetahs with the NPWDRL mod.
I have 4 somewhat decent looking Cheetahs left.
Well actually it is more like two. The other two got nicked up around the outer hub.
Non have the fluting removed.
I would like to race this month with 3 of them.
5K said that he noticed no speed difference from the bumps.
It makes sense to me for the rears but not the front.
5K also said that he does not think that a QTip stalk could deform the bore.
You guys see where I am going with this?
 
laserman said:
B_Regal Racing said:
It is a BASX, and I did leave the fluting alone. By shallowing the bend in the DFW axle, I gained a 100th and all but eliminated the noise and vibration. Not enough to challenge for the top spot, but perfecting the art of the build, gaining a bit of speed, little by little.

As a side note, I have removed fluting before just as GX said, but I usually ruin more wheels then save. I wind up removing the fluting, but the wheel bore becomes deformed because of too much pressure by the chuck. It is tricky (for me anyway). It is easier for me to buy the DD4H Cheetahs with the NPWDRL mod.
I have 4 somewhat decent looking Cheetahs left. Well actually it is more like two. The other two got nicked up around the outer hub. Non have the fluting removed. I would like to race this month with 3 of them. 5K said that he noticed no speed difference from the bumps. It makes sense to me for the rears but not the front. 5K also said that he does not think that a QTip stalk could deform the bore. You guys see where I am going with this?

I think I get what you're saying. However, everyone does things different. What works for one guy may not work for another.