DIY Arduino-based timer

bracketracer

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Pro Racer
Mar 21, 2013
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This is the second one of these I've built from plans I found here. The first one has been in use several times a week for over a year with no problems so I went with it again for the new track. If you've never used an Arduino. start here by downloading the Arduino IDE. I'm using version 1.0.5 but I had a problem with it. You have to go into the libraries folder and either delete or move the RobotControl and RobotMotor files out of that folder. Once that's done you can copy and paste the provided sketch into the IDE, verify it, and upload it into your Uno. You can configure this timer for one to six lanes, just alter the line in the sketch to match your track. The pics here show a six lane timer. You can add over the track displays if you want, I chose not to since this is only a test track and the times are recorded in my log automatically.

I chose to buy the pre-etched circuit board for this one, it did make the assembly easier. I had some components left over from the last build or I would have opted for the board and base components package he sells. The board comes bare, this pic shows it with some of the parts set in place to be soldered.
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I soldered in wires in place of the status LED and the timer reset button so I could mount those two items through the lid of the project case. Here it is with the pin headers and other parts soldered in.
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I soldered two rows of male pin headers to the underside also. These are what connect the board to the Arduino.
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I mounted the status LED and the timer reset switch through the lid for easy access. The chrome bezels for the LEDs are made for two pin LEDs, so to mount the four pin multicolor LED I had to poke two more holes through the rubber mount making sure to keep all the pins separated.
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It's done far enough now to upload the sketch and test it on the breadboard
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It works! I left the sketch configured for one lane since I only had one sensor on the breadboard.
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I cut a hole for the USB cable to plug in to the Arduino and mounted the control in the box on some short standoffs.
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Once the wires pass through the box, it would be hard to identify what goes where so I marked both ends.
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Now it's getting crowded in the box. Some of the wires pass through the back of the box and the rest go through the lid to a pair of jacks.
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This jack connects to the start gate control box via a cable. I chose to use cat5 cable but you could use Molex connectors, Weatherpacks, or hardwire it if you want.
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I needed two more jacks to run to the external sensors so this.......
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becomes this:
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I brazed together some 1" 6061 square tube to mount everthing
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And mounted the control box to the finish line
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I put together another board for the start box for the relay that controls the gate solenoid
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The lid of the start box has a manual release button, a jack for a remote hand held button, and a jack for the 24v transformer that powers the solenoid. The two Molex connectors run to the gate switch and the gate release solenoid.
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Every sensor bracket gets a jack so I can connect them together. I numbered everything as I went to keep it straight.
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After connecting everything up, I was able to test all the sensors for the first time on the bench.
You also have the option of a large display if you want
All done and ready to mount to the track!
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I mounted some of the sensors one foot apart, so I made this tool to calibrate them all the same. It's exactly 12" from the far end of the tool to the near end of the notch.
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I use it like this and just keep moving one sensor until the pair register the same time when you slide the tool at even a slow speed.
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I kept at it until it would repeat.....PITA but now I can compare times from pair to pair with a degree of certainty. I had the other sensors masked in the program so that's why they're showing the max time.

That's all there is to it!
 
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Awesome Stephen! I have still yet dared to heat up the soldering iron to get mine melted to the board yet. LOL Great job! Guys you are seeing a master at work when it comes to this stuff. Pay attention.
 
NOOOOOOO! I'm no master! I had very little experience with electronics before I built the first one.

I'm not the chef, I just followed the recipe! lol!
 
bracketracer said:
NOOOOOOO! I'm no master! I had very little experience with electronics before I built the first one.

I'm not the chef, I just followed the recipe! lol!
But I believe you have mastered this recipe and therefore you are the Master.
 
OMG!!!!

Dude!!! You are totally amazing!

I will have to read that recipe about 100 times and google a bunch of stuff to understand it!

The reset button part was the best. I can really see your design aesthetic.

I'm getting "1960's, James Bond, transponder"

Seriously. Amazing fella.
 
Stephen,
I know you've got amazing skills! Now you've proved it! Thanks for posting all the pictures and describing the assembly process. Your design (anticipation) and attention to details is inspiring.
I bet the new track and timer is gonna help you improve your times in all classes. Everyone watchout !
Can't wait to check out your new track setup and tune our cars for the Nationals.
Maglev
 
BR, Do you put two timers at the beginning of the flat or one at the start of the flat and one on the curve?
 
3phase,
I put two at the top of the hill, two at the start of the flat, two more at the finish line.
Each pair is the same distance apart. I use them like speed traps at a dragstrip.
 
Ok BR,

I'll bite.

What's a speed trap at a drag strip do?

I googled it but only got some answer relating to torque and ET.

Thanks
 
Joe, MPH on your timeslip at a dragstrip is not measured (like the po-po does with a radar gun), it's calculated. They have photocells set up both before and at the finish line to measure how long it takes your car to cover a known distance. From there they can calculate the MPH on the slip.

They used to have beams set up both 66ft before and 66ft after the finish line but some guys would "drive it out the back door" trying to get the highest MPH reading they could and it lead to problems stopping some of the fuel cars. So they shortened the speed trap down to what they use now.

I use the extra sensors to see how long it takes the car to cover exactly one foot at various points on the track.
 
WOW!!!

I was not expecting that answer!

Fascinating! Thanks!

Fella,

You are on a whole other level!

Congrats!

This is a really big step in getting precise measurements in time for the PWD.

I am sure all sorts of revelations will take place as a result of it.

When is a good time for me to visit? I have always wanted to see the "Show Me" state.

This is a device worth making a pilgrimage for. You have been warned.

/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
http://www3.telus.net/public/vgfedor/FordT-Bird/95SC_timeslip_14_788.jpg

I see.

It would be great to have another pair in the middle of the flat.

Will you be able to move them around easily? Can you bolt them together at the right distance so it wouldn't take as much fussing with to set up in different positions?

Thanks.
 
...now to just finish mine. I've liked this idea from the first moment BR talked about it many months ago. I have all the ingredients, now I have to find the chef in me to finish the build.
 
Thanks BR.
Have you been working on a spreadsheet or program to help give you information you want easier(velocity, acceleration, deceleration) ?
 
I was scribbling in a notebook but since Mr. Gadberry (the man who built the miscjunk.org website) sent me a beta version of his new software I keep pretty much everything in the notes section now. You can export the data in a .csv format and paste it into Excel, which I do so it can calculate a few things for me.
 
laserman said:
Will you be able to move them around easily? Can you bolt them together at the right distance so it wouldn't take as much fussing with to set up in different positions?

Thanks.

They are easy to move on each section of track. If you plan ahead and leave two extra nuts and bolts for each sensor location you want to try then it's easy to move the sensors. They slide in the rails under the track. You just can easily mount them very near the ends where the track connectors go. They just need a 5/16" hole for the sensor to peep through.
IMG_0415.jpg~original
I'd be afraid to add a bracket between a pair unless it had some way to adjust and lock in the spacing. Very tiny adjustment on the brackets make several .00x's difference in the times between the pair. I'm happy with where they're at for now.
Besides, I've worked on this thing for weeks and I want to get back to building cars and stuff! lol!
 
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Brilliant idea to use the T slots and line at the joints.

Yeah. Really man!

Enough of that nerd stuff already.

It's time to build some PWD cars!

PS. Mr. Gadberry,

You the man!

That statement about "nerd stuff" was said with tongue in cheek.

Congrats to you both
 
cball917 said:
if someone were not electrically inclined, who could you get to build you a system like this?

Is there a tech school near where you live? High school robotics club? These Arduino controllers are used in many robotic projects so the kids may be familiar with them. Check with the instructors to see if they have a student they could recommend.