Hey guys I have kind of a silly question but here it goes. Do you guys usually drill your axel holes first, then cut out the size you want, or do you cut out say your 1/4" thick piece then drill your holes. Also how many cars do most guys get out of one block. Thanks for the info fellas, I been trying to absorb as much of your knowledge as possible.
Drill first, or cut out first
- Thread starter whitaker717
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If using a cub scout block I can get three cars. I measure and drill the holes first so they will be accurate from the original bottom. It's tough getting the dimensions correct if I cut, sand and then drill. I guess it's possible, but I don't have the ability to sand flat. I wish I did. That's on the wish list; a planer.
For me it is in this order:
1) Cut the weight pockets
2) Lightly sand the bottom of the wood block with a sanding block
3) Check flatness of wood block on a flat surface such as a drill press table or a granite inspection table.
4) Drill the axle holes, canted in the rear, straight in the front
5) Slow roll the car down the tuning board with 2 oz of weight taped in the weight pockets, one oz in front of the rear axle and one oz behind it, with 3 straight axles and stock BSA wheels installed. Checking to make sure that the car rolls fairly straight and the the rear wheels pop out to the heads of the axles in a short distance of rolling.
6) Cut the wood block down from 1/2" thick to 5/16" thick on a ban saw using a table guide against the top surface of the wood block.
7) Repeat the slow roll from step 5.
8) Finish shaping of the car body.
With my method you will only get 2 car bodies our of a scout block.
DD4H sells nice 1/2" thick x 1 3/4" wide x 7" long sugar pine blocks that I have used with good results.
1) Cut the weight pockets
2) Lightly sand the bottom of the wood block with a sanding block
3) Check flatness of wood block on a flat surface such as a drill press table or a granite inspection table.
4) Drill the axle holes, canted in the rear, straight in the front
5) Slow roll the car down the tuning board with 2 oz of weight taped in the weight pockets, one oz in front of the rear axle and one oz behind it, with 3 straight axles and stock BSA wheels installed. Checking to make sure that the car rolls fairly straight and the the rear wheels pop out to the heads of the axles in a short distance of rolling.
6) Cut the wood block down from 1/2" thick to 5/16" thick on a ban saw using a table guide against the top surface of the wood block.
7) Repeat the slow roll from step 5.
8) Finish shaping of the car body.
With my method you will only get 2 car bodies our of a scout block.
DD4H sells nice 1/2" thick x 1 3/4" wide x 7" long sugar pine blocks that I have used with good results.
My order of steps deviates slightly from yours Todd. Regardless, I would say the biggest factor in any procedure is your 5th step: "Slow roll the car down the tuning board... with 3 straight axles... and BSA wheels installed. Check to make sure the car rolls fairly straight and the rear wheels pop out to the heads of the axles, in a short distance of rolling."
Those wheels need to migrate outwards to the axle head. And to add to your 5th step Todd, I would also turn the car around 180°, roll it again and look for the same migration of the wheel to the axle head. Rolling it one way only doesn't let you know if you have a slightly toed-out axle in the forward direction. 180° reverse rolling it will bring that flaw out. In either case, roll the car out both ways. This is a good diagnostic test, of axle toe, on that axis.
I would also say, that if the car tracks slightly to one side, place your DFW to favor that tracking. It doesn't make since to place it opposite of this, you'll fight that car and never reach the full potential of the build.
Those wheels need to migrate outwards to the axle head. And to add to your 5th step Todd, I would also turn the car around 180°, roll it again and look for the same migration of the wheel to the axle head. Rolling it one way only doesn't let you know if you have a slightly toed-out axle in the forward direction. 180° reverse rolling it will bring that flaw out. In either case, roll the car out both ways. This is a good diagnostic test, of axle toe, on that axis.
I would also say, that if the car tracks slightly to one side, place your DFW to favor that tracking. It doesn't make since to place it opposite of this, you'll fight that car and never reach the full potential of the build.
Chief said:
To add to this post. Slow roll the car after each procedure, whether you cut weight pockets first or last. Drilling axle holes first and then checking, before weight pockets, gives you the opportunity to flip the block around and try again. Depending on the size of the block you could get 4 attempts at getting it right. Just remember what holes are junk.
I'm not sure how I would do that since I intentionally drill the NDFW higher than the FDW. Just curious...GravityX said:
I always cut my body before drilling. Cutting the body can release tension in the block and warp your drill if done before cutting.
B_Regal Racing said:
Some people drill both fronts to the same height, the bent DFW axle lifts the body so the NDFW shouldn't touch.
HurriCrane Racing said:
Question: What aspect of the drilled hole is being warped? Just curious. I want to see if we are on the same page here.
B_Regal Racing said:
4th hole is not needed to check a slow roll, drill it later. The wheel in floating, accuracy is not a factor for the NDFW axle hole. Just don't drill it lower then the DFW axle hole. Having the straight through front axle hole could give you the option of deciding if the car is a better RH DFW or LH DFW car. Test with the third wheel on both sides if the car drifts during the slow roll. It may roll out better on one side than the other, who knows?
+1 Stephen, I use to drill unequal front axle heights, didn't see the benefit over an equal axle height drilling.
- Nov 24, 2011
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I don't believe it really matters. My Street Pro Kryptonite was drilled, pocketed and then shaped. Every Street Pro trophy I have was won with that car. My Eliminator Superleggera was pocketed, drilled and then shaped and won here also. It's just a matter of preference.
GravityX said:
The drilled hole is not warped. The body itself will slightly warp when I rip cut it down to 1/4".
This can throw off the cant. What I have seen is that one wheel will migrate much quicker than the other. This leads me to believe that the degree of cant has changed because both wheels popped out to the axel heads quickly and evenly before I cut the block down.
Like Kinser said, it may all just come down to preference. Cutting the body down first is what works more consistently for me.
Another way of saying it's a matter of preference is "see what works for you". Nothing beats practice and experience. Wood is cheap to practice on.
And it certainly helps to hear what some of these guys that have done a lot of winning have to say to help you along the way.
And it certainly helps to hear what some of these guys that have done a lot of winning have to say to help you along the way.
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