Drill Press

No. The Silver Bullet uses Standard measurements, not metric.

rofl


Actually, though. It appears that "no" is correct. That is a tiny drill press (6 3/4" square?!) intended for jewelry. I doubt you could get a block under the drill bit.

I was incorrect in my take on this drill on first viewing. I went back and looked at the Product Description and saw "The base measures 6.75 x 6.75 with a drill clearance of 5 inches". That should leave you with enough clearance to drill your axle holes. However, if you also use your drill to make weight pockets (3/8", spade, or forstner bits), it is too small to handle those: "The Jacobs chuck accepts bits up to 6.5mm" (1/4")
 
TRE said:

Look on the same page as above.
There is a Proxxon 27100 for 102.50 with free shipping.
That is exactly what you want.
It has the XY Table.
With that, you can drill perfect holes, with or w/o a cant.
Used properly, as you drill opposite holes for the rear wheels, they will be absolutely perfect
 
I use that press. My table was off a little so I attached a 1' x 9" piece of glass to it and shimmed it square. Run out and quill travel was good. I still dream of a proxon though.
 
For what it's worth, I would look for a collet chuck instead of the Jacobs 3 jaw chuck. The collet holds the bit more accurately and securely. I believe the Proxxon comes standard with the collet set up. JM2C
 
GravityX said:
For what it's worth, I would look for a collet chuck instead of the Jacobs 3 jaw chuck. The collet holds the bit more accurately and securely. I believe the Proxxon comes standard with the collet set up. JM2C

Thanks for the tip GX,

I was looking at the MicroMark press because I heard it was the same as a Proxxon.

The MicroMark comes with the 3 jaw chuck though.
 
TRE said:

That drill will do the trick. I had it before I upgraded this pass year to a proxxon. It works fine for drilling axles, don't use it for making weight holes or routing out weight pockets, like someone said, it can't handle the load for that type of work. It has a collet and it kept my drill bit very tight, I used the 43# drill bit from DD4H and that way the drill bit would not walk on the wood and drilled exact.
 
TRE said:
thats just a table i dont think it includes drill press

You are right, I didn't look close enough.
However, that table (or one like it) is worth a mint in drilling holes in the exact location.
If budget is a problem, get the drill first, then the table later.

Incidentally, when I bought mine, I watched for used ones.
Got the Prox drill, the table, the block (jewkes), and both drill bit holders.
All for $150.
 
OPARENNEN said:
TRE said:
thats just a table i dont think it includes drill press

You are right, I didn't look close enough.
However, that table (or one like it) is worth a mint in drilling holes in the exact location.
If budget is a problem, get the drill first, then the table later.

Incidentally, when I bought mine, I watched for used ones.
Got the Prox drill, the table, the block (jewkes), and both drill bit holders.
All for $150.

The man must have had tears in his eyes as he was sending it out to ya.
 
laserman said:
OPARENNEN said:
TRE said:
thats just a table i dont think it includes drill press

You are right, I didn't look close enough.
However, that table (or one like it) is worth a mint in drilling holes in the exact location.
If budget is a problem, get the drill first, then the table later.

Incidentally, when I bought mine, I watched for used ones.
Got the Prox drill, the table, the block (jewkes), and both drill bit holders.
All for $150.

The man must have had tears in his eyes as he was sending it out to ya.

If it's who I think it was, he did!
 
FWIW to the original poster, if I had to do it again, I would've just got a better quality drill press. I kept waiting and tried collecting various tools over the year and eventually got the cheap press from Harbor Freight. Don't know what the run out is, but there's a fair amount of visual variance. I haven't tried getting the chuck off to see if reinstalling will help (doubt it), but just kind of wish I would've not cheaped out on the drill in hindsight.
 
TRE said:
4wheeldrift what would you suggest

I'd go with what many of the guys here have suggested and get a proxxon. I know they are a lot more coin so if not that then something very comparable. I think my HFT drill was like $45 on sale. So at that price point it's very good, but forget about doing any precise drilling. Maybe I also don't know enough about fine tuning it, but I'm pretty sure the chuck is securely mounted but I've even noticed sometimes when starting to drill it'll even want to easily deflect to one side a bit. It did this last week when drilling in a pine block. Wouldn't have expected that in pine!?
 
4wheeldrift said:
TRE said:
4wheeldrift what would you suggest

I'd go with what many of the guys here have suggested and get a proxxon. I know they are a lot more coin so if not that then something very comparable. I think my HFT drill was like $45 on sale. So at that price point it's very good, but forget about doing any precise drilling. Maybe I also don't know enough about fine tuning it, but I'm pretty sure the chuck is securely mounted but I've even noticed sometimes when starting to drill it'll even want to easily deflect to one side a bit. It did this last week when drilling in a pine block. Wouldn't have expected that in pine!?

+1.

I have a Jet Bench top drill press. Not sure the size but it looks like the table drops about 18"

The spindle looks wonky after moving it down a bit "too far". The Jet sander worked out Ok but I am not convinced by the press. Even if it were a Delta or something at least made in the USA, I still feel like smaller is better. Somewhat counterintuitive to most tools eh?
The small tool allows for quieter operation and less vibrations.
Since it doesn't need to do a lot of work the tolerances can be quite precise.
Again, I am new to paying attention to all these details, but it looks like everyone uses the Proxxon for a reason.

It is the right size for the task.
 
For $50 my Harbor Freight works just fine.

Puma, just because it's a Delta doesn't make it great. My Delta scroll saw is wimpy even by scroll saw standards. It's good for cutting fenders and pockets in a 1/4 inch thick pine and that's about it. I've tried different blades, adjusting it like crazy, it's just wimpy. BUT, it was free so on second thought it works great!
clap


I wish I had a better drill press, but I bought what I could afford and it has been okay. My craftsmen router w/table and craftsmen band saw I am very happy with. I also use my Makita sander a lot and it works well.
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_21484.jpg

you have this one MOFAST
 
MOFAST said:
For $50 my Harbor Freight works just fine.

Puma, just because it's a Delta doesn't make it great. My Delta scroll saw is wimpy even by scroll saw standards. It's good for cutting fenders and pockets in a 1/4 inch thick pine and that's about it. I've tried different blades, adjusting it like crazy, it's just wimpy. BUT, it was free so on second thought it works great!
clap


I wish I had a better drill press, but I bought what I could afford and it has been okay. My craftsmen router w/table and craftsmen band saw I am very happy with. I also use my Makita sander a lot and it works well.

Thats cool. I am partial towards Delta. When it comes to moving parts I like American, German, and Makita. Of course the Swiss got it going on. Each tool for the job. This is obviously a specialized tool. I had a Delta bench-top bandsaw that I tossed. Sometimes you can get a decent Chinese made tool. It just takes more research.

I bought the HF workbench and I highly recommend it.