Hi. Instead of bending the nails can I just drill a hole in the body at a 3 degrees angle? Ive seen the silver bullet way of doing this but is there a way to use the pro body jig to get the same angle? Maybe I could put a 5/64" shim under the side and get an angle that way? The block would have to be cut first or else the shim wouldn't fit because it's a tight fit in those jigs. But if the car is cut down to 3/8" it might work. If anyone has any ideas can you please share them? Thank you
Drilling axle holes in block at a 3 degree angle?
- Thread starter McDoodle
- Start date
V
Vitamin K
Guest
McDoodle said:
The most common way to approach this would be to use either the Silver Bullet/Block + Drill Press, or to use Goatboy's Drill Block to do the job. Of course, the Silver Bullet isn't currently for sale and Goatboy's tools are only available sporadically...
Davet posted a solution that he came up with, involving the Revell tool and a drill bit as a spacer. My advice if you go with this method would be to clamp something to your block (like a machinist's square) that you'll use to serve as an alignment brace for the Revell tool prior to moving the pin to the other side of the block.
You can also drill with a shim under the edge of the block, or with a spacer between the bottom of the block and a fence. This method, however, puts you at the mercy of the squareness of the block.
Regardless of what method you go with, be sure to test, test, test your drill job before going further with the build. You can find some more info on this forum about methods to do that.
I originally drilled using the Revel Axle Jig (similar to the DW Pro Axle Jig). I used pins under the opposite that was being drilled to get negative cant. Found out early on its not suitable for league racing but for some scouting events, you could make it work. Here is a chart I created for cant angle:
Spacer Angle
Thickness (in) (degrees)
0.120 3.9
0.115 3.8
0.110 3.6
0.105 3.4
0.100 3.3
0.095 3.1
0.090 2.9
0.085 2.8
0.080 2.6
0.075 2.5
0.070 2.3
0.065 2.1
0.060 2.0
Make sure you do your best to keep the rear axles parallel. The more they are staggered, the slower you will be.
Spacer Angle
Thickness (in) (degrees)
0.120 3.9
0.115 3.8
0.110 3.6
0.105 3.4
0.100 3.3
0.095 3.1
0.090 2.9
0.085 2.8
0.080 2.6
0.075 2.5
0.070 2.3
0.065 2.1
0.060 2.0
Make sure you do your best to keep the rear axles parallel. The more they are staggered, the slower you will be.
Bullet Pin
Cant Diameter
Angle (in)
------ -------
1.50 0.100
1.56 0.101
1.61 0.102
1.67 0.103
1.72 0.104
1.78 0.105
1.84 0.106
1.89 0.107
1.95 0.108
2.00 0.109
2.06 0.110
2.12 0.111
2.17 0.112
2.23 0.113
2.28 0.114
2.34 0.115
2.40 0.116
2.45 0.117
2.51 0.118
2.57 0.119
2.62 0.120
2.68 0.121
2.73 0.122
2.79 0.123
2.85 0.124
2.90 0.125
2.96 0.126
3.01 0.127
3.07 0.128 <----- Comes with the Silver Bullet
3.13 0.129
3.18 0.130
3.24 0.131
3.29 0.132
3.35 0.133
3.41 0.134
3.46 0.135
3.52 0.136
3.58 0.137
3.63 0.138
3.69 0.139
3.74 0.140
3.80 0.141
3.86 0.142
3.91 0.143
3.97 0.144
4.02 0.145
4.08 0.146
4.14 0.147
4.19 0.148
4.25 0.149
4.30 0.150
4.36 0.151
4.42 0.152
4.47 0.153
4.53 0.154
4.58 0.155
4.64 0.156
4.70 0.157
4.75 0.158
4.81 0.159
4.87 0.160
4.92 0.161
4.98 0.162
5.03 0.163
5.09 0.164
5.15 0.165
5.20 0.166
5.26 0.167
5.31 0.168
5.37 0.169
5.43 0.170
5.48 0.171
5.54 0.172
5.59 0.173
5.65 0.174
5.71 0.175
5.76 0.176
5.82 0.177
5.87 0.178
5.93 0.179
5.99 0.180
6.04 0.181
Cant Diameter
Angle (in)
------ -------
1.50 0.100
1.56 0.101
1.61 0.102
1.67 0.103
1.72 0.104
1.78 0.105
1.84 0.106
1.89 0.107
1.95 0.108
2.00 0.109
2.06 0.110
2.12 0.111
2.17 0.112
2.23 0.113
2.28 0.114
2.34 0.115
2.40 0.116
2.45 0.117
2.51 0.118
2.57 0.119
2.62 0.120
2.68 0.121
2.73 0.122
2.79 0.123
2.85 0.124
2.90 0.125
2.96 0.126
3.01 0.127
3.07 0.128 <----- Comes with the Silver Bullet
3.13 0.129
3.18 0.130
3.24 0.131
3.29 0.132
3.35 0.133
3.41 0.134
3.46 0.135
3.52 0.136
3.58 0.137
3.63 0.138
3.69 0.139
3.74 0.140
3.80 0.141
3.86 0.142
3.91 0.143
3.97 0.144
4.02 0.145
4.08 0.146
4.14 0.147
4.19 0.148
4.25 0.149
4.30 0.150
4.36 0.151
4.42 0.152
4.47 0.153
4.53 0.154
4.58 0.155
4.64 0.156
4.70 0.157
4.75 0.158
4.81 0.159
4.87 0.160
4.92 0.161
4.98 0.162
5.03 0.163
5.09 0.164
5.15 0.165
5.20 0.166
5.26 0.167
5.31 0.168
5.37 0.169
5.43 0.170
5.48 0.171
5.54 0.172
5.59 0.173
5.65 0.174
5.71 0.175
5.76 0.176
5.82 0.177
5.87 0.178
5.93 0.179
5.99 0.180
6.04 0.181
V
Vitamin K
Guest
Since you are going with the Block, I'd commend to you 5KidsRacing's video showing his setup.
His homemade tool is a little nicer than a basic Block/Bullet, but the principle is the same. You definitely wanna pay attention to the stop he has built into his drill press table.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9n-P4z6EwD4[/video]
His homemade tool is a little nicer than a basic Block/Bullet, but the principle is the same. You definitely wanna pay attention to the stop he has built into his drill press table.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9n-P4z6EwD4[/video]
The bar/fence bolted to the drill press table provides exact axle hole placement on one of two planes depending on the orientation of the block itself to the fence: either the height of the axle hole from the bottom of the car (block position "long ways" against the fence e.g. the bottom of the car) or distance of the axle hole from the rear of the car (small end of the block positioned against the fence e.g. the back of the car). While you do not absolutely need the fence, I think most (if not all) racers do use it. Precision is the key. Depending on how I orient the block to the fence, I either use the D4D X/Y fence (http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/d4d-xy-fence-7049586?pid=1284020154) or a pair of Magswitch 165 MagSquares (http://store.cyberweld.com/maswmasq.html) so I have two planes to press against. You can see John use them (the block and the MagSquares) in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlwQfL0cOiE
Question, is this viable? My drillpress table tilts and I have a digital angle finder. I use my custom DW-like tool to mark the holes. I set the table to 3* and use a machinist block( the is wood clamped to it) up against the fence so the block (planed already) is properly aligned. Flip it over and repeat. Axles are parallel, 3* cant and wheels migrate as they should. Cost for machinist block $13, had the angle finder. The SB/Block may be a tad quicker but for a Dutch guy who only makes 6 cars a year, it seems to work.
- Nov 24, 2011
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xjarcher said:
If you can get the fence set up perfectly perfectly perpendicular to the plane of your angle. Chances of doing it without the tight tolerances of a cnc are slim. Thats why the block was invented.
V
Vitamin K
Guest
bracketracer said:
My ancestors came from the Netherlands. Being cheap is a common trait with Dutchman some more than others. I has been said that Dutchman still have their first dollar ever made.
I live in West Michigan (Holland, Zeeland etc.) LOTS of Dutch people here. Yes I am Dutch genetically and practically as well. I have a fixture that lets me drill 3* holes but wanted to try 2.5* so I spent quite a bit of time setting up my drill press to get it! The Block/SB still has a margin for error- drilling a hole on a reference line- I'd like to eliminate it. A better fixture vs. a block/SB and mag blocks. Taking my brother out for dinner plus some money for drill guides is less expensive.
No, I didn't save my first dollar, but I do have the 40 year old varsity jacket I bought it with.
No, I didn't save my first dollar, but I do have the 40 year old varsity jacket I bought it with.
While I've been long familiar with the concept of going dutch (splitting cost or paying your own way), I'd never heard 'Dutch' used as a reference to being cheap, or "one who squeezes a Nickle until the buffalo craps."
