Dynasty 91X Pro Axle with stock design wheels

[davet]

Can someone put this combo together for me and install into a body then tell me what you think please. I think the gap has to be too small to get the wheel to ride correctly, especially on the DFW where it will move into the body and away from the head. I've never used aftermarket axles before and may be way off though.
It appears to me that because the front hub face of a stock wheel is recessed into the wheel a bit that there isn't enough axle material under the head for the wheel to ride on. I don't think it would matter if you used 91's, 92's or 93's, they seem to be cut the same. I don't have any wheels with the step removed but in looking at pics of those they seem like they would work better because the hub is actually coned opposite of stock, meaning it protrudes out rather than is recessed.
Thanks

 

[davet]

Also, the relief cut for the bend is down into the hub slightly with the wheel pushed up against the head. I need to tip the wheel down to see the cut. Maybe fine for modified wheels but seems tight for stock or non-modified wheels.

 

[ngyoung]

Are you using an after market axle with the bend groove pre-cut for you? If so it was probably marked using a wheel with the double step removed so the axle sat deeper in the hub. That may be why the groove is sitting slightly inside the wheel. You have a little play with that larger bore region at the inside hub if your wheel gap isn't too big that the wheel still shouldn't ride on the groove. Now I am thinking the wheel may still bind against the bend if it is too high up.

I am not clear what you're trying to figure out. The axle heads are pretty much all the same regardless of shaft diameter. That goes for stock or aftermarket. With the double step the wheel just makes contact with the axle head farther out from the center compared to a wheel with the step removed and cone. The shift diameter doesn't change that.

 

[bracketracer]

I think the op's concern is that the axle journal out near the head is very narrow and with the double step intact it's placing that journal outboard of the wheel's bore. I have a wheel at home that is cut in half, I can check it when I get home tonight davet.

 

[ngyoung]

Ah. So the edge of the groove on the shaft(not the bend groove) is possibly catching the edge of the bore.

 

[bracketracer]

I took it to mean that he has two concerns, the location of the groove in the axle relative to the wheel bore when running with an intact outer step and also the location of the bend groove that was pre-cut when using an intact outer step and a stock inner hub.

 

[davet]

I think the op's concern is that the axle journal out near the head is very narrow and with the double step intact it's placing that journal outboard of the wheel's bore. I have a wheel at home that is cut in half, I can check it when I get home tonight davet.

Exactly. If I run very tight gap it seems OK on the rears but with the bent axle it seems to need more meat near the head for the wheel to ride on.

The second concern is that the bend groove is slightly into the bore. When I push that wheel up to the head I have to look down into the bore to see the groove. This means that when I set my gap the bend actually begins slightly into the bore. I've got another one that isn't bent so I'll mark that one and try to bend it tonight. Yes, it was pre-bent.

I just mentioned the other diameters thinking that you guys are probably using the larger axles and more likely had those handy.

 

[davet]

Are you using an after market axle with the bend groove pre-cut for you? If so it was probably marked using a wheel with the double step removed so the axle sat deeper in the hub. That may be why the groove is sitting slightly inside the wheel.

Just what I was thinking.

We still have the stock axles we grooved and polished so we'll be OK. Race is Sat and this was an impulse buy trying to better our times from last year.

 

[davet]

Marked, made a relief cut then bent the last axle to 7.5 degrees like Cygnus showed me. The wheel runs much smoother. I installed on the car and can get around .025" gap (at the closest portion) before the front of the hub starts to catch on the front edge of axle groove.

If I run .020" gap is that enough meat for the front edge of the hub to ride on (about .005")?

My relief cut lays right in the gap whereas with the pre-cut axle I couldn't see the relief cut.

It looks like these axles will work with non-modified wheels.

 

[bracketracer]

Yep, you should be fine. Here's a close-up of a 92X axle and a cutaway stock BSA wheel.

 

[davet]

Yep, you should be fine. Here's a close-up of a 92X axle and a cutaway stock BSA wheel.

Thanks. Still seems like not much for the wheel to ride on when you take into account about .020"-.025" gap.

 

[Obsessedderbydad]

That's why you make your gaps as tight as possible /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[davet]

.

 

[davet]

Yep, you should be fine. Here's a close-up of a 92X axle and a cutaway stock BSA wheel.

I see now that with that step removed you could have that .015"-.025" gap and still have the wheel riding on that entire journal. I'll only be using roughly 1/2 of that journal with around a .020" -.025" gap.

 

[bracketracer]

I don't know that you would need to run the gaps so big with an aftermarket axle. Even with graphite I start around half that and test from there to see what the car wants.

 

[cygnus]

Yep, you should be fine. Here's a close-up of a 92X axle and a cutaway stock BSA wheel.

This is a great picture showing a slightly curved wheel bore and a good example for using grooved axles verses non-grooved axles. See how the outer and inner axle journals find a settling spot on the wheel bore.

 

[davet]

i'll run them tight. I was under the impression the gap on dfw was more than rears. not as confident in our drill jobs as u guys and I know our cars aren't as refined as u guys build.