Grooving BSA axles

Mar 28, 2016
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Fort Collins CO
Hey everyone.

My son's pack has pretty strict rules about using BSA axles and graphite. From my research here, it sounds like in order to get the best out of the axles/graphite we should groove the axles. After going through about a dozen axles or so I think that we have the process dialed in. We are basically putting one large groove where the 3 crimp marks are. I am not sure how deep the groove should be. Is it sufficient for it to be deep enough to not be touching the the bore? Is there an advantage to be had by having the groove be deeper?

Thanks,
~Rich
 
i wouldnt worry about grooving the axles

I concur with Troy. My current theory is that the benefit of grooves is realized mostly when you are running tight tolerances with oil. I suspect it does very little (if anything at all) for running graphite.
 
OK. My thoughts were that I have to remove the crimp marks, I might as well groove them. It sounds like we would be better served by seeing if we can use the Revell axles? Other than less prep work, is there a benefit to using them?
 
I don't even have my son remove the bumps on the axles. The two crimp marks, yes, but we don't worry about the bumps. When he installs the axles, I just have him put the smoothest face down. The axles are already too small, over-polishing just makes them worse.
 
Wow. This is all great info. Thank you everyone :).

I remember reading somewhere that the axles are not actually round but more of an oval shape. By placing the bumps facing up does this put the does this put the narrow ends of the oval facing forward an aft?
 
I don't even have my son remove the bumps on the axles. The two crimp marks, yes, but we don't worry about the bumps. When he installs the axles, I just have him put the smoothest face down. The axles are already too small, over-polishing just makes them worse.
This is interesting. I built a car that did not reomve the crimp makes. The car did not run smooth. I swithed to smooth axles and the car ran faster. I will run the axles with the crimp mark face down to see what happens.
 
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Guys, please re-read my comment. I did not say that he places the bumps up and down. The bumps go fore and aft, the smoothest face goes down.
 
Thanks for clarifying. I read your post to hastily. Having the smooth edges on the top and bottom makes much more sense. When bending the DFW axle does one try yo take in account where the smooth edges will be when turning the axle for steer? Or am I over thinking things?
 
Here is the latest up date. I rotated the axles to orient the smooth part of the axle up. The car is much more stable and way faster than my polished axle car. We live and learn every day. I wasted several hours removing crimp marks and polishing axles.
 
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