GX NEXGEN SP Aero System kits

You better latch on to a set of covers if you want to be competitive...

Got some coming. He is making some right now.
By the way.... you are awesome Hurricrane. I have seen a lot of pinewood derby videos and your cars are always at the top and they look amazing also.
What is your secret? LOL.

Just finished my first Door slammer car. It has some gaps where air can get in, but now bad for getting the chassis right and the wheels not to rub the car body.
IMG_2011.PNG
 
Got some coming. He is making some right now.
By the way.... you are awesome Hurricrane. I have seen a lot of pinewood derby videos and your cars are always at the top and they look amazing also.
What is your secret? LOL.

Just finished my first Door slammer car. It has some gaps where air can get in, but now bad for getting the chassis right and the wheels not to rub the car body.
View attachment 23

My secret is that all the fast guys got tired of winning and quit! LOL (Sorry Benji, we managed to lure you out of retirement)

Nice looking Street Rod! Hope to see it on the track during the next NPWDRL race.
 
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The Street rod is running with graphite and even with it being 6 ounces it is slow. To slow to compete a nationals. On my 2 lane best track (42 feet) it runs at 3.119
What kind of wheels do y'all run on your street rod cars?
 
If I may ask, why are you using graphite? Oil alone will improve those times. But the downfall is you can't, or shouldn't, put it over a graphite prep.
 
The Street Rod class allows you to run a 2 gram wheel. Looking at your pic, I would guess you are running stock or nearly stock wheels. Lighter wheels will help, get the ones with the tread edge removed. Switch to an oil prep system and learn how to use it and I'm sure you'll pick up some.
Don't forget that you can't easily compare times on your 42' track to anyone else's 42' track unless you have rune the same car, untouched, on both tracks. Once you do that, then you can calculate the correction factor for your home track and get a reliable estimate of where you need to be for that class. Every class gets their own correction factor on your home track.
 
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If I may ask, why are you using graphite? Oil alone will improve those times. But the downfall is you can't, or shouldn't, put it over a graphite prep.


I have always used graphite because that is all i have know and I thought oil was not legal. All the races i have been in up to this point have been scouting rules. I am waiting on some oil from DerbyDad4Hire. It will be my first time using it. Any suggestions. How dose the oil work with sending cars in proxy? How long will the oil stay on? Dose it dry up and bind the wheels?
Thanks for the help.
 
The Street Rod class allows you to run a 2 gram wheel. Looking at your pic, I would guess you are running stock or nearly stock wheels. Lighter wheels will help, get the ones with the tread edge removed. Switch to an oil prep system and learn how to use it and I'm sure you'll pick up some.
Don't forget that you can't easily compare times on your 42' track to anyone else's 42' track unless you have rune the same car, untouched, on both tracks. Once you do that, then you can calculate the correction factor for your home track and get a reliable estimate of where you need to be for that class. Every class gets their own correction factor on your home track.


Thanks for the info. I will get some 2 gram wheels for my street rod car.
I would guess the national best track (42 feet) runs faster than my same track. (a couple of the intersections still need some sanding and buffing).
 
Thanks for the info. I will get some 2 gram wheels for my street rod car.
I would guess the national best track (42 feet) runs faster than my same track. (a couple of the intersections still need some sanding and buffing).

The track used at Nationals in Omaha last May was quite a bit faster than the NPWDRL track in Utah so if you're going by those times I can see why you might think you're off the pace. Once you send in a car to a monthly race you'll have more info to go on.
 
I have always used graphite because that is all I have know and I thought oil was not legal. All the races I have been in up to this point have been scouting rules. I am waiting on some oil from DerbyDad4Hire. It will be my first time using it. Any suggestions. How does the oil work with sending cars in proxy? How long will the oil stay on? Does it dry up and bind the wheels?
Thanks for the help.
Oil will last when sending in for proxy racing and it does not dry up. I've raced on the same prep for several months, of course, it does not compare to a fresh prep. If you haven't already done so check out DD4H site for the Black Ice polishing kit. A full set of prep instructions is listed right there in the product description.
 
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