How to keep DFW from damaging body.

My goal has been to enter the proxy races and have been working to improve my cars. I recently built two cars that ran sub 3.0.(2.997, 2,994). I found the cars held that speed for about 2-3 weeks then times began to fall off. When I re-prepped the wheels and axels, I was never able to get the time back under 3.0. 3.015 seems to be the new norm. I noticed that the DFW had worn a groove in the body. Is the a way to prevent this when bushing and spacers are not allowed? Or is it just typical for cars to become slower with use?
 
I guess that you're not racing in the NPWDRL? We're allowed to use spacers on the body.

For the scout races, where washers aren't allowed and graphite is the only lube allowed, I just rub CA glue in the area where the wheel hub will ride, let it fully cure, lightly sand it smooth, then rub in DD4H's graphite. I can't say I ever noticed wear in that area, but my son's cars only have to make about four laps and they're done for the year!
 
Can anyone comment on the Teflon inserts being used. I to can not use bushings or spacers but would like a better solution. Are they hand made or are they listed on dd4hire n I'm not seeing them??
 
On my son's scout cars we used [ my wife's fingernail polish ]
eeek
Its got Teflon in it and is very hard, don't even have to polish, its real slick. Made by Sally Hansen and is called Teflon Tuff.....SPIRIT.......
 
Spirit Racing said:
On my son's scout cars we used [ my wife's fingernail polish ]
eeek
Its got Teflon in it and is very hard, don't even have to polish, its real slick. Made by Sally Hansen and is called Teflon Tuff.....SPIRIT.......
This is a great tip!

As far as over testing goes, wheels do wear out. My guess is the tread of your wheels need cleaning and you will drop probably .01 to .02. This is why you WOULD NOT want to put your car on a treadmill.
 
Good Idea spirit I will be in the same situation with my boys car this year. Can you sand the nail polish Our troop has some good competition and most will not comply with the rules but well smoke them complying to the rules.
 
I don't feel the need to sand the nail polish. It dries fast and dries very smooth. It is clear. And I put it on very thin. Make sure to not let it get in your axle hole , I use a tooth pick to make sure the hole is clear before it dries. You can experiment with some junk blocks of wood , to see how much you want to put on and even see it sanding will give you the finish you like.........SPIRIT.......
 
Ickabod Crane said:
My goal has been to enter the proxy races and have been working to improve my cars. I recently built two cars that ran sub 3.0.(2.997, 2,994). I found the cars held that speed for about 2-3 weeks then times began to fall off. When I re-prepped the wheels and axels, I was never able to get the time back under 3.0. 3.015 seems to be the new norm. I noticed that the DFW had worn a groove in the body. Is the a way to prevent this when bushing and spacers are not allowed? Or is it just typical for cars to become slower with use?

It's probably the paint/clearcoat you're using. Testors and Tamiya lacquer paints that you find at your local hobby store--dry soft. Try using Dupli-color lacquer found at auto parts stores--it dries hard.
 
You can still use Testors lacquer paints with their better color selection, but don't use the Testors clearcoat. Dupli-color clearcoat lacquer will spray just fine over the Testors basecoat, 3-4 thin coats, let dry 48 hours, and you should be good to go.