I used Zinsser 1,2,3 primer.

[Halo Blu]

I'm painting one car Gloss Blue, and one Gloss Purple, with a Clear top, on two different cars.
The Zinsser did a good job of knocking down the grain, but bubbled up on the end grain. While the top and bottom look perfect, the front, and back look horrible. One car looks like orange peel at the ends, and the other looks like every pore- FARTED, right before it dried. Both will be sanded, repainted, and sanded.(Again!)
Both cars got 3 coats of primer, allowed to dry, sanded, and re-primed. (Repeat) Both cars were sanded to a fine, smooth surface, and looked PERFECT before painting, so why all the gas-off?
It literally blew bubbles, 48 hours after- between coats.
Before my Clear Coat, can anyone give me a few tips?
It said, dry 24 hours between coats, and I did 48 hours... between coats. Am I rushing things? @ 72 degrees/ no wind/ low humidity/prepped, and sanded, and I thought I did everything right! What went wrong?
Please Help!

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I do not know much about paiting or if this car is for scout or league racing, but paint is heavy. Watch your weight.

 

[Rocket car]

It sounds like this is an oil based product(via the dry times) I would apply lighter coats. Especially on the balsa pieces. Balsa is like a sponge, so you need to start out with very light coats or it will take forever to dry. Poplar, basswood and pinewood to some extent will all dry quicker with less hassle.

 

[Halo Blu]

Straight Pine/B.S.A. kit.
It's funny, when the forum 'name' says, "Pinewood Derby Online", and people question the "Kind" of wood. (???)
"Back in the Day"... We only built with PINE. I never thought of "CHEATING" by using another type of wood. Just me? or is Balsa, Basswood, Poplar, Etc. not PINE?
"Wood Derby Online" might be a better name, but I'm old, and try to stick to the original rules of the Pinewood Derby.