John's Wheel Bores

Feb 23, 2014
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Do Johns Wheels all come back a standard size? If So what is it? I Believe he cleans them all up.

Thanks!
 
I would guess that he doesn't do anything with the bore unless requested when the order is placed, i.e. wheel bore polishing. As far as being "standard" I don't think so, because the wheel molds vary and so will the bore.
 
Kinser Racing said:
IIRC most of the BSA bores are within 5 thou of each other.
These days I believe that the majority of stock BSA wheel bore diameters are in the 0.0965" - 0.097" territory, with outliers mostly on the high side. Maybe the question really is "does John ream the bores (larger) on the wheels he lathes in order to achieve a consistent setup ?" If that was the question, I would guess not, just because I have received highly machined 2g wheels from him that have 0.0965" bore diameters while I remember years ago seeing 0.098" bore diameter wheels from a much inferior lathed wheel supplier. Obviously the smaller bore is always preferred.
 
I was going to post a similar question...

I've been having trouble with a tick in a couple of my 2.0g Cheetahs for the May race. Had them apart and inpsected axles, wheels, etc under magnification three times and cant see any issues. I am suspecting wheel bore concentricity. I only polished them once per directions and they look good. Is is possible to just get a bad bore once in a while? I have another set that were fine...do I need to buy more than one set at a time from John to pick the best ones?
 
I have heard the "tick" sound before myself (not from John's wheels though). When I am done with my wheel and axle prep, I want to hear nothing when I spin the wheel. The "tick" wheel usually winds up being the raised front wheel.

New to adult racing - so take this for what its worth. Just my experience.
 
I have it in one of the rears, and slightly in the other...i'm sure some of the derby whisperers could identify this quickly...paying my dues as a noob I guess! Everything looks clean, smooth and symetric, and it repeats when I pull apart and put back together each time, worse when tilted toward axle head. Was thinking it might just be the slop in the bore/axle, hoping it wont be as bad when running. My other car with one thou larger axles and same wheels doesnt do it at all though...can't even tell they are spinning by listening to that set. Both sets are grooved.
Ummm...think I just answered my own question while typing? Thanks, guys!
 
*Here are my observations on the US BSA vs. the China BSA wheels. I turned a bore mounting pin on my lathe to machine some US made BSA wheels for truing. I got a nice slip fit with a bore pin diameter of .0965. Later I got some China BSA's from my local hobby shop, all from the China mold #2. When I mounted these on the same pin on my lathe they were very tight, probably .0005" to .001" smaller bores. These machined really nice and the bores polished super smooth using John's #1 polish and Red Rocket. I think they are better after machining than the USA wheels. They are not as true before machining but this doesn't matter as long as they come out true after machining the OD and the width.
Some of the USA BSA wheels show surface molding defects even after machining the OD down to 1.173" or smaller. I have one that shows defects on the OD at a diameter of 1.163"!
 
I've never had any problems with any of the wheels.. 9-10 times if ur cars are slow it's ur prep. Unless the drill is off.. John sales us a super nice wheel.. The rest is up to is to get the all out of the wheel... If your hearing noises rear it apart and redo ... Cause something isn't right.. My wheels are silent ..
 
Thx guys, these wheels may be from early on before I really started working the hubs. I will check that set out tonight, not sure if I will need them for the next batch of cars yet...or better, fix them and build another car!
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