Jsfiddle

Roadrunner

Pinewood Ninja
Mar 12, 2020
68
35
18
Iowa
Is anyone else experiencing odd behavior of the jsfiddle tool? The link doesn’t open the result page in full screen mode as it always has in the past. Instead, I’m presented with the jsfiddle editor. Any thoughts?
 
I haven’t seen either of those mentioned in the forums. One is an enhanced COM visualizer. An easy way to document your cars. The other requires pretty good tooling to take advantage. For example, you would need to drill your dfw at .154 to level that default car - if that was your goal. Which brings me to my question... do you guys try to level your cars, or run with one end higher than the other?
 
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I haven’t seen either of those mentioned in the forums. One is an enhanced COM visualizer. An easy way to document your cars. The other requires pretty good tooling to take advantage. For example, you would need to drill your dfw at .154 to level that default car - if that was your goal. Which brings me to my question... do you guys try to level your cars, or run with one end higher than the other?
Just starting at the league level. I just follow the Silver Bullet bushing drill points and try to maximize weight bias as closely as possible.
 
Yeah. I imagine only the pros put any thought into leveling their cars. But I’m curious about what the goal might be. Dead level or some other angle?
 
Okay. So I’ve given it a little thought and I’ll try to answer my own question. I believe it should be as level as possible. Otherwise you will be introducing a compound angle in your axles. That’s bad for the same reason we don’t bend rear axles. If I’m wrong, let me know.
 
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I haven’t seen either of those mentioned in the forums. One is an enhanced COM visualizer. An easy way to document your cars. The other requires pretty good tooling to take advantage. For example, you would need to drill your dfw at .154 to level that default car - if that was your goal. Which brings me to my question... do you guys try to level your cars, or run with one end higher than the other?
This much I know from getting help from pros... having your car level front to back is best if you can attain that. Often times the DFW’s amount of bend is used to accomplish that as you will lift the car a bit.
Also think of this... with your rear axles canted... a lifted front end will turn your straight rear drill into toe out. A lower front end will cause your rears to have toe in. If you aren’t level you are making more work for yourself when it comes to league level set up and success.
 
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Sure thing man. We all learn PWD 101 as we go with a lot of help. ;)
Mr Jimmy ask a hundred people and you’ll get 150 answers. But I’ve been told by some very reputable pros on the Forum that a very slight toe in on the rears can be helpful. I just sent The Intimadator to Johns with a bit of rear toe in to find out for myself and I suppose we’ll all find out together lol.
 
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Looking forward to watching em run Rat Rod!
I'll be racing a Box Stock and Awana cars at APR's Finals June 27th and hopefully my BASX at NPWDRL June 4th... if he's ready.
 
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Looking forward to watching em run Rat Rod!
I'll be racing a Box Stock and Awana cars at APR's Finals June 27th and hopefully my BASX at NPWDRL June 4th... if he's ready.
Well The Intimidator is running on fumes after the weekend from hades. Ironhead is in the rebuild mode correcting some issues. Maybe one day we'll git er dun for Dale !!
 
Mr Jimmy ask a hundred people and you’ll get 150 answers. But I’ve been told by some very reputable pros on the Forum that a very slight toe in on the rears can be helpful. I just sent The Intimadator to Johns with a bit of rear toe in to find out for myself and I suppose we’ll all find out together lol.

I’m curious to see how that works out. I was thinking maybe a little toe out - if anything. Toe out might help the wheels move away from the body, right? And I do mean a little bit of toe out. The default numbers on the drill visualizer work out to .011 degrees toe out. I could bench race with you all day, but I’ve really got to get one on the track to see how it behaves... good luck in your race
 
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Thanks, Jimmy. That makes a lot of sense.[/QU
I’m curious to see how that works out. I was thinking maybe a little toe out - if anything. Toe out might help the wheels move away from the body, right? And I do mean a little bit of toe out. The default numbers on the drill visualizer work out to .011 degrees toe out. I could bench race with you all day, but I’ve really got to get one on the track to see how it behaves... good luck in your race
thanks
RR from what I’ve gatheredpfrom the guys with the banners next to their avatar say a slight toe in is helpful but toe out is an ET killer.? Let me know what you come up with please.
 
My plan is to build as straight and level as I can. If I ever get a test track, that’s something I would experiment with.

And just when we think we have it figured out I checked Microbrush’s specs on his acrylic jig. Rears @ 1/8 from bottom of block to axle centerline. Fronts @ 5/64 from bottom to axle center line. Go figure man !! Lol
 
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And just when we think we have it figured out I checked Microbrush’s specs on his acrylic jig. Rears @ 1/8 from bottom of block to axle centerline. Fronts @ 5/64 from bottom to axle center line. Go figure man !! Lol
Are you sure about the 5/64 in the front? I'm showing more like 5/32".
 
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