I have had luck with filling with either clear epoxy or lightweight bondo. I think the diy wood putty should work too.
ladder car issues
- Thread starter dan s
- Start date
which clear epoxy? i still have to pickup some epoxy to clue in the weights. was going to use JB Weld Clear Weld Syringe.
I was afraid epoxy may expand or contract when it dries.
The 2 part epoxy worked for me it didnt seem to expand at all. You can also use a good double stick tape to keep the weights attached and foil tape over the bottom. That way you can mess with weight placement and remove and reuse the weights. Is this for the NYC race?
if I say yes will you stop helping? lol
Thanks, was thinking about using the double sided tape for the weights, but it is quite a tight fit, I can use it in the second cavity. We had bought some bulk 3/16 and 1/4 tungsten cubes. It's my sons first year as a wolf and we have gotten lucky so far and qualified for the NYC race. so yes we are going.
I have never had to re-drill... again only due to being blessed with serious step by step help from a fast pro, cough cough, Reecedad, cough. Including bodies he drilled for me. (I got a drill jig finally to do my own)
But a common trick I have heard from folks who know is real simple... wood glue like Titebond II and toothpicks. Once hardened it’s like the hole was never there and re-drill as necessary. Shoving a simple toothpick in there instead of making paste sounds a bit more simple.
Get a drill jig if you think you’ll keep at this hobby/addiction. Worth the money. Next thing you know you’ll want to send one in to one of the leagues and you will start racing EVERY MONTH!!!
The addiction is real dude. You’ve been warned.
I've used toothpicks on a few scout cars and they work wellI have never had to re-drill... again only due to being blessed with serious step by step help from a fast pro, cough cough, Reecedad, cough. Including bodies he drilled for me. (I got a drill jig finally to do my own)
But a common trick I have heard from folks who know is real simple... wood glue like Titebond II and toothpicks. Once hardened it’s like the hole was never there and re-drill as necessary. Shoving a simple toothpick in there instead of making paste sounds a bit more simple.
Get a drill jig if you think you’ll keep at this hobby/addiction. Worth the money. Next thing you know you’ll want to send one in to one of the leagues and you will start racing EVERY MONTH!!!
The addiction is real. You’ve been warned.
Not to change the subject but a quick thread highjack... Anthony did you send your cars to APR for tomorrow’s race? I still have to sit out due to this months finances but plan on sending cars for the finals in July. Your car GFC is on a roll. Did I get that name right?
Yup I sent that car in, hopefully it can find some speed. I have also spent a ton of time for the NYC race so I haven't put enough time in to some other builds. I was real happy with my mini last month though.
I don’t even want to think about mini’s right now. Next build will most likely be Pure Stock. A pink one for my daughter. We’ll see...
I just got John's Silver Bullet Extreme and started to mess around with it. Looks like my drills are about to get better.
Our Awana rules changed this year to no bent axles so I got the clear 5 bushing jig with the bushing for set steer for that purpose. We’ll see how next seasons Awana builds go.
Even more races with no bend axles, what are they doing? I have the 5 bushing clear jig too, however I do have issues with getting consistent steer drilled with it. Esp. when drilling in a car that is already been build and has the 1/16 taken of. Not an issue when building a new car maybe but when trying to get the current car ready for NYC, not that straight forward.
Just use the normal 3M double sided tape, it's as thin as normal tape and it sticks really well. I had issues removingpour weights. We normally just use the aluminium tape on the bottom and that has worked well enough to hold the weights in place, we normally cover the whole bottom with it. I presume you are racing stock division in NYC? As mentioned before take the 1/16 off at the dominant wheel, also cover the bottom before the race. But alignment is key, so the advice of filling the holes up and re-drilling is not a bad idea, I also feel that axles in the open slots are much more sensitive for being knocked out of alignment. You could use a toothpick to fill up the axle hole and a coffee stirrer or small piece of bass wood (sand to fit) to fill up the rest of the axle slot before drilling. You are allowed to fill up the whole hole before drilling, just leave a small space open so they can see the axle points (if they still require that, not clear from rules and FAQ). Good luck!
What wheel gap would you recommend? Do you use the same for back wheels and DFW? We have the wheel gap tool from DD4H and normally use the black, which is 0.10 I believe, would you use the same gap for smaller diameter (BSA) axles or use smaller or larger gap? Thanks!
I agree that 3m double sided tape works well. There is also an industrial strength version. The tape doesn’t add significant thickness on top of the tungsten cubes. This method allows you to move around the weights without damaging the wood.
Similar threads
