New builds

Nov 24, 2011
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I spent much of the day working on a couple of new builds for MOTM. Thanks Skippy! You're awesome to let me burn up your tools!
AddEmoticons08013


My new SS "Foo Fighter" (Thanks JAC!/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif) and my new Unlimited (I'm resurrecting the name not the car) "No Denial".

Pics to come later, maybe, if you're lucky and I decide I want to.
ninja


I'm sorry if you're disappointed in this thread!
 
Just make sure you wrap the wheels up in the monokote and get it very tight so the wheels wont move on you...hahaha
 
Never used monokote. If it's like vinyl stick it ti the wood and trim the edges. After you can smooth it out with a hair drier.
 
Quicktimederby said:
Never used monokote. If it's like vinyl stick it ti the wood and trim the edges. After you can smooth it out with a hair drier.

KINSER said:
Is there anyone willing to help me with applying the Monokote, please?

I've used both MonoKote and EconoKote. EK comes in 5 inch strips. MK in rolls. The rolls are thinner and lighter, but I often find very difficult to iron on wrinkle free. I finally stopped using the rolls, and use only the strips, because strips are more trouble free and faster, and weight difference is negligible.

You need to buy an iron from a model air plane shop (www.monokote.com/accys/topr2100.html.) About 10 - 15 dollars. they are shaped like a boat, rounded on the two sides and the back, but the front has a gradual slope about the same as what we put on our wedge cars. width is just a speck wider than our car widths, length is about 2.5 inches.

On the strips, peel off the backing, pull tight from front to back, and leave enough on all sides to be able to grip and pull tight. The strips have a bit of adhesiveness, and you can press it down to the point where it sticks with your fingers. From front to back, pull at the sides (you have already tightened front to back) until all wrinkles are gone. Then iron it. The irons also come with a cloth glove, but normally I just cover with a thin clean rag (I buy them from the paint dept in Home depot). The cotton cloths are about the same thickness as a white dress shirt (or cut pieced from throw away dress shirts). I iron from back to front.

If I make a mistake, and have too much wrinkle, I just heat up the vinyl, tear it off and start again. Stuff is easy to remove when hot.

Trim with a brand new blade in an Exacto knife. On BSA cars, where washers not allowed, I wrap the EconoKote up the sides from the bottom to take the place of a washer. For league races, I leave the sides pure wood.

PM me for further questions. I've been using the stuff for 3 years.
NOTE: I ran a test on 2 identical UNLM bodies (GoatBoy), one with EconKote and one with Tester's Lacquer paint. I.e. three coats, primer, color and clearcoat, 1500 wet sand in between. Lacquer paint was still the lightest, but not enamel.

Lacquer vs. Econokote
I ran a weight test between EconoKote, lacquer and enamel paint.
Lacquer was lighter (3 coats, primer, color, clear coat, sanded in-between with 1500 wet paper).
Enamel was heaviest. Lacquer lightest, but so slightly, that I stick with EconoKote.
 
I just use the Monokote trim sheets and pull tight front to back as described above. leave a little extra on the sides to pull and trim off later. I use a Havalon knife to trim around the edges. I don't heat it at all as the fit and finish is good enough for me with just the trim sheets. I bought the iron for the rolled monokote but have never used it.
 
I am new to the trim sheets, but have done a few cars recently that turned out well.

I have been afraid to trim with a knife after applying so I have been tracing the car body with a fine point Sharpie (Kinser I know you like that) and then cutting the shape with a scissors.

I have been cutting the front 1/2" of the backing off and sticking the trim sheet to the front of the body. After I have the covering lined up on the rear of the body, then I remove the rest of the backing, pull tight over the length of the body and carefully stick the rest of it down from front to back.

I hope this helps.
 
Rocket car said:
I usually paint or clear coat my with lacquer. It is what I spray on furniture everyday. It's fast drying and about 1/2 the weight of an enamel (oil based) paint. Water base is also heavier.
smile
I can only speak for the automotive world and for us water borne paint is A LOT thinner and lighter, and dries in a fraction of the time.
 
Thank you very much for the tips guys! I appreciate it!

I got Foo Fighter covered in Monokote today and it turned out really well. I noticed that it poofs up a little at the cavities. Is this normal and can I get it to level out with a hair dryer? My inclination is that any heat might make it worse by causing the air to expand more. It's quite a bit of work to get them covered and looking good.
 
On a scout car will Monocote act as a washer, if you put it on the sides?
Or will the dfw eat into the side like it does on the wood and really slow you down?
 
plhiatt said:
On a scout car will Monocote act as a washer, if you put it on the sides?
Or will the dfw eat into the side like it does on the wood and really slow you down?

We used it on my boys car for a washer, it worked fine. We used a blunt end axle and hit it with a small hammer to make the axle hole then used 1/4" hole punch to punch it out.
 
We are planning to cover the whole side of my son's car. I am worried someone will cause a fuss calling it a washer if I cut out just a circle. It seems pretty ridiculous but just playing it safe to not draw any additional scrutiny since he will likely have plenty after the first few heats.
 
ngyoung said:
We are planning to cover the whole side of my son's car. I am worried someone will cause a fuss calling it a washer if I cut out just a circle. It seems pretty ridiculous but just playing it safe to not draw any additional scrutiny since he will likely have plenty after the first few heats.

I'm with ya on that.

His was "Not a Competition" race, so we weren't to concerned. We ran lightened wheels with a guide pin. There were dads asking me questions as to how it was done. It was funny. Since it was not a competition we decided we would stomp them so bad that there would be no question as to who really won. It was a 42' best track and the closest car was about two feet behind. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif

I really couldn't see how they could call a small sticker a washer.
 
ngyoung said:
We are planning to cover the whole side of my son's car. I am worried someone will cause a fuss calling it a washer if I cut out just a circle. It seems pretty ridiculous but just playing it safe to not draw any additional scrutiny since he will likely have plenty after the first few heats.

If you are covering the side of your car with a plastic type substance something like MonoKote or EconoKote, or the PineCar stuff they sell at many Hobby Sites, my recommendations (which I have used numerous times with my grandsons), is:

Cover the bottom of the body first, and wrap the coating up over the sides (all along the entire side) and iron it on. The EconoKote stuff I have used with my grandsons numerous times is simply a replacement for paint, but it works as good as a washer. Another trick, is to paint the sides (really by the body's axles holes) with Teflon finger nail polish. I have even used the polish over EconoKote, but my testing indicated that it didn't make any difference.

The real point is, don't make anything look like a washer, put it on the whole side of the car.
 
Opa's tip on using a thin coating of the Sally Hansen Teflon Tuff brand finger nail polish around the axle holes works great.

You can probably still buy it from Amazon. Don't try to find it in a store. You will go nuts trying to do that.
 
Yes Opa. I learned that reading your original posts on monokote and sally hansen. One of the great tips I came across digging through the forum when I first started.