Nickel plated axles
- Thread starter davet
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- Nov 24, 2011
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While nickel is better than zinc, you can not get any nickel unless you buy an aftermarket axle. Once you decide that is where you are going- go full throttle with DD4H Stainless Steel. The Chromium makes it the hardest and also lowest friction surface of any axle. WAY better than zinc, titanium, or soft nails. (as in BSA USA and BSA China)
Many aftermarket axles that have nickel plate are still plating over a soft steel so a modest jump off the stop section can bend you in a bad way. Will not happen with Stainless.
Many aftermarket axles that have nickel plate are still plating over a soft steel so a modest jump off the stop section can bend you in a bad way. Will not happen with Stainless.
when you notch out the axle nothing would flake when you bend anyway. The stress happens at the cut portion of the axle.
I'd like my boy to do the bends and grooves himself so the stainless seems more difficult to work with.
As long as the nickel axles aren't softer than the stock BSA kit axles we would be fine. We only race scout races and don't reuse axles. Just looking for something a little better than the stock BSA's. We orderd a set of zinc speed axles from John but I'll wait to get them to see the diameter. They may be smaller than I'm looking for.
As long as the nickel axles aren't softer than the stock BSA kit axles we would be fine. We only race scout races and don't reuse axles. Just looking for something a little better than the stock BSA's. We orderd a set of zinc speed axles from John but I'll wait to get them to see the diameter. They may be smaller than I'm looking for.
I recently played with nickel-plated axles (a scout dad bought them). I can not say they were any harder of softer than stainless, as I use a bend groove and an axle bending tool. I did not see any flaking (and I was paying attention for that). What I did notice that after they are stored, they seemed to dis-color; not sure why. I use stainless; that's what DD4H sells (and what the pros use). I know that I do not have to re-prep stainless axles, but when I saw the discoloration on the nickel-plated axles, I did re-prep this car to bring back the "shine."
I personally would not waste the money (I think it is a marketing strategy), and would rather purchase something similar to this (all vendors sell these):
http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Zinc-Speed-Axles-Set-Of-5-A-zsp.htm
and use the Pledge trick, or go strainght to stainless.
I personally would not waste the money (I think it is a marketing strategy), and would rather purchase something similar to this (all vendors sell these):
http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Zinc-Speed-Axles-Set-Of-5-A-zsp.htm
and use the Pledge trick, or go strainght to stainless.
I think if you use nickel plated axles you probably want to avoid sanding paper and any harsh polishing compounds. The layer is pretty thin. Stick with the liquid or paste type metal polishes and you will be ok. We all use stainless steel. We don't want a bent axle.
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Vitamin K
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If you're coating the axles with a layer of Jig or Silicone Spray or what-have-you before the race, does the metal of the axle make a real difference?
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Not sure of the type of stainless used in the axles, but I would bet it is 400 series stainless. The 300 series is not typically magnetic.
All I know for sure is that they are hard, straight, and fast.
Hmmmmm. Taken out of context, my description may sound a bit salacious.
All I know for sure is that they are hard, straight, and fast.
Hmmmmm. Taken out of context, my description may sound a bit salacious.
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OCDerbyDad said:
You know what happens when you assume....
I have not tested them, but I "suspect" they are 17-4 PH due to the high hardness they exhibit.
I cracked one pre axle bending tool in the bending groove. Thus my suspicion on the high hardness/strength with Low Ductility.
That is also why the Derby Worx axle bender will not bend John's axles, but it works fine for cub scout axles.
I guess I should have noted, that mine were apparently John's old ones, I am unfamiliar with the new ones. I ordered like 8-10 sets to build some cars and haven't gotten around to it.
Kids and dads I mentor consistently win at the pack, district and council levels with zinc axles and BSA out of the box wheels. At the scout level, none of this stuff really matters. We have beaten cars with every wheel and axle combination imaginable most operating outside the spirit of the rules. Teach your kid to win within your rules and that preparation is for more important than trying to "Buy" a win with exotic add ons that press the legal limits. Teach your kid to win fairly and with dignity. My two cents.
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Vitamin K
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Falcon777 said:
All things being equal, if you know what you are doing, you can definitely get good speed from a properly prepped BSA axle. It's a pain to have to select straight ones and then deburr and polish, but it can be done.
That said, there are definite speed boosts to using better axles. However, I suspect the gains have more to do with the straightness, roundness and diameter of the axles, as opposed to whatever metal they happen to be made of.
Also, definite +1 to winning within the rules.
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