Now I see why they are called Intimidator wheels ...

Yeah. Let's keep this one for just the members of L.A.S.T
Please include the brand name if you know it.
Thanks
 
Hi Scott,
Do you think it is less accurate to true it, drill it, and then insert the bushing using the tail stock, and remove remaining material at that time?
Thanks
 
5KidsRacing said:
There are a couple different ways, but I think the most common is just making a wheel and then a bushing and then pressing the bushing in the wheel by hand. You have to have a light press fit otherwise you will distort the bore and make it smaller than you intended.... I could never get that to work and my wheels always ended up with a slight wobble.... I hated that... I suppose I am not a very good machinist. I cut the wheel and then cut the bushing and with the bushing still on my lathe mandrel I installed my wheel. That way I knew my bushing was dead nuts and I could spin my spindle slowly to get the wobble out of the wheel. It is easy to get wobble and I played with it until there was no wobble.... I then knew the wheel combo was good.... I then took the wheel off, added some 5 min. epoxy on the bushing and put the wheel back on and repeated the previous process.... if it took me longer than 5 minutes to get the wheel where I wanted it with no wobble I was screwed.
Click to expand...

Question............would acrylic glue, the stuff that is the consistency of water work? If it would, then once you had your wheel trued up initially, all you would have to do it run a bead of the glue around the joint where your bushing and wheel met on both sides. (instead of having to work within the 5 minute window) Seems to me it would fuze the two together and make a good stong joint. I never tried it, and don't make mine the way that you do, but seems to me it should work?
 
BSB racing said:
5KidsRacing said:
There are a couple different ways, but I think the most common is just making a wheel and then a bushing and then pressing the bushing in the wheel by hand. You have to have a light press fit otherwise you will distort the bore and make it smaller than you intended.... I could never get that to work and my wheels always ended up with a slight wobble.... I hated that... I suppose I am not a very good machinist. I cut the wheel and then cut the bushing and with the bushing still on my lathe mandrel I installed my wheel. That way I knew my bushing was dead nuts and I could spin my spindle slowly to get the wobble out of the wheel. It is easy to get wobble and I played with it until there was no wobble.... I then knew the wheel combo was good.... I then took the wheel off, added some 5 min. epoxy on the bushing and put the wheel back on and repeated the previous process.... if it took me longer than 5 minutes to get the wheel where I wanted it with no wobble I was screwed.
Click to expand...

Question............would acrylic glue, the stuff that is the consistency of water work? If it would, then once you had your wheel trued up initially, all you would have to do it run a bead of the glue around the joint where your bushing and wheel met on both sides. (instead of having to work within the 5 minute window) Seems to me it would fuze the two together and make a good stong joint. I never tried it, and don't make mine the way that you do, but seems to me it should work?
Click to expand...

I bet it would work pretty well that way. As long as the OD of the Delrin bushing had some tooth to it, or a bit of a reveal. I might consider leaving the dichlo exposed to sunlight for a day just to weaken it a bit. The brand I use is fairly aggro when it touches polystyrene.
 
Sorry if this is a dumb question. Why use a BSA wheel bore for the bushing? Isn't the razor wheel already made of the same material? I thought the point in using a bushing was to add something else with a lower CoF then the plastic wheels already offer.
 
Ok. I thought we were talking about SP wheels this hole time.
Sorry about that.
 
Yep. I got the feeling that was the case after I realized we were talking about razor wheels earlier.

I guess after all that testing and research to prep a BSA wheel material, the materials with lower CF be danged. The prep has to be reinvented for those.

Thanks again,
 
I still dont quite get it. Isn't the razor wheel's bore the same material as a BSA wheel? Why bother drilling it bigger just to put a bushing of same material back in?
 
ngyoung said:
I still dont quite get it. Isn't the razor wheel's bore the same material as a BSA wheel? Why bother drilling it bigger just to put a bushing of same material back in?
Click to expand...

The thread started out being about the Intimidator wheels which is a Highly moded and lightened wide BSA wheel for Street Pro and then it morphed. Competitive Eliminator wheels aren't BSA but made of other materials. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
Sorry ngyoung, I didn't notice that this thread was bouncing back and forth between SP wheel and eliminators....

Here at the NPWDRL you can run bushings in either SP wheels or eliminator wheels. Traditionally elimininator wheels have been made from a material similar to BSA wheels and the bore/bushing was the same as the rest of the wheel..... and you are right, if you are going to drill out the bore and change it with another material then it better be a faster material right? Sooooo guys like BnB, DaPine & BSB started changing out the bores with virgin Teflon and those were fast, but the prep techniques were different than with standard BSA wheel bores. For awhile those reigned supreme, but lately people have had success prepping the standard "all one material" eliminator wheels and also with the new DD4H eliminator wheels. I have tried many materials for wheel bores in both SP and eliminator wheels, but to tell you the truth I am always faster with BSA wheel bores in my eliminator wheels. WHY? well probably because people like DD4H have experimented making BSA wheels fast for a long time and the techniques used to make BSA wheels fast is well known and easy. Could I make a Delrin with Teflon wheel bore fast? sure, but it would take me a long time to figure out what technique of polishing works and what combination of boundry layer lubricant (jig/blue can) worked and what oil worked and in what amounts....

For the most part the only materials being raced today at the top of the leader boards are BSA material and the "space age" material in one piece eliminators.... BSB, Cycrunner & bearing racers are a few that don't...
 
Thanks for the clarification Scott! /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif

I think I've got something figured out in Eliminator. We'll have to wait and see at the race next week. I'll just say that it's a lot faster than last month. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif
 
BSB racing said:
laserman said:
Hi Scott and Bill,

I pulled this picture from an Owen's Racing post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/jlo86cj/Pinewood%20Derby/43ee4b95.jpg

Can either of you tell me what this tool is?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Is there a prize for whoever gets the right answer first?
Click to expand...

That's a hand tapper for tapping perfectly straight into the material.
 
GravityX said:
BSB racing said:
laserman said:
Hi Scott and Bill,

I pulled this picture from an Owen's Racing post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/jlo86cj/Pinewood%20Derby/43ee4b95.jpg

Can either of you tell me what this tool is?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Is there a prize for whoever gets the right answer first?
Click to expand...

That's a hand tapper for tapping perfectly straight into the material.
Click to expand...

Ladies and gentlemen it's, "Name That Tool!"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3gvqyw73wU
 
Duh! I thought the intimidator wheels were razor style wheels not a very thin SP wheel. Sorry for confusing the topic of the thread.
 
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