Only 2 good wheels, where to put them?

[Greg Shirek]

I have 2 awesome revell bsa “made in China” wheels left over from last year, luckily. And 1 okay wheel that will be useable. All Else are terrible ( ones that came in kit this year. Where would you put these 2 best ones? Both in back?. One in front one in back?
I rail ride and cant back wheels 2.5 degrees.
Thanks.

 

[TRE]

Put your best wheel in front

 

[Mojo Racing]

What part of the wheel is "Best"?

 

[Greg Shirek]

What part of the wheel is "Best"?

The revell wheels do not have the 2 step outer hub like the bsa made in USA wheels do. That is one thing that makes them better. They are also more sound when it comes to wobble. They don’t. The stock bsa one (3rd best ) has the double step , only spins 15 instead of 20 secs and has a slight slight wobble.

When I spin wheels I put them on a 45 degree angle to give some friction On the nails head and wheel outer hub since I rail ride and cant back wheels so they will be riding on the heads and have friction.

All in all put one of the best wheels in front since it’s riding the rail?

 

[Mojo Racing]

I was asking, because a number of things should be considered when you grade your wheels.

Radial runout - Wobble and spin is one of the first things most people look for.

Circumferential runout - When you spin the wheel, how does the tread look? Most people wont have a runout gauge to see what the wheel does, but if you can see the tread moving up and down, it will cause your car to hop, skip, and jump going down the track...

Bore condition - Take a look inside your bores next. If your bores are junk, be careful with where you put that wheel. Better yet, trash it and make a trip to the scout shop and buy a couple more tubes of wheels. Pay attention to your bore sizes as well.

Consider all of these things when you are grading your wheels. If you are able to match up your molds, you will generally be more consistent with your wheel properties.

 

[Greg Shirek]

I was asking, because a number of things should be considered when you grade your wheels.

Radial runout - Wobble and spin is one of the first things most people look for.

Circumferential runout - When you spin the wheel, how does the tread look? Most people wont have a runout gauge to see what the wheel does, but if you can see the tread moving up and down, it will cause your car to hop, skip, and jump going down the track...

Bore condition - Take a look inside your bores next. If your bores are junk, be careful with where you put that wheel. Better yet, trash it and make a trip to the scout shop and buy a couple more tubes of wheels. Pay attention to your bore sizes as well.

Consider all of these things when you are grading your wheels. If you are able to match up your molds, you will generally be more consistent with your wheel properties.

Yeah no runout on the Revell ones. Slight runout on bsa one (3rd best ). Bores of all 3 are fine. Well , maybe slightly large due to too much sanding.
Some of the wheels I considered junk were because of wobble when riding on the axle head ( axle heads are true) but may have had no runout. What’s more important , no runout or no wobble ?

 

[Mojo Racing]

No wobble up front. That really messes with your steer

 

[Greg Shirek]

No wobble up front. That really messes with your steer

Makes sense. Lightest part of car is front so need best wheel up there.
Putting the worst of the 3 in back seems like the way to go since more weight is back there so will have less if a tendency to wobble. Seem right?

Lastly you suggest putting the “bad” wobbly wheel on same side as front rail riding wheel or on the opposite side ?

 

[Mojo Racing]

if it is a definite wobble... I will go to the store honestly.

 

[Greg Shirek]

if it is a definite wobble... I will go to the store honestly.

Well not wobbly. All relative. It’ll do. So #1 wheel up front. # 2 wheel where and #3 wheel ( the Wobbliest one ) where. ??