We had an awesome day racing yesterday. My sons both went undefeated to win their den races and faced each other in the Championship Race and will be representing the pack at District.My daughter went undefeated to win the siblings title and I won first in the parent/cubmasters race. We have never had great success at district and wondered if we need to repeat the polishing of the wheel bores with the red rocket and re-pledge or should we stick to just adding more of the dd4h graphite? The last question is around drift. I have it set up as a rail rider and drifting about 1/2 inch over a 3-foot run. Is that agressive enough? And shouldI tweek up to 5.04 ounces... they are 5.0 on the money. I truly thank all the folks like laserman, GravityX and DD4H for all the help and advice.
Prepping for district races
- Thread starter jrbryant68
- Start date
Congratulations on the multiple wins!
I would just do the Pledge on the axles and add more of the DD4H graphite. The wheel bores should have a good burnish of graphite in them now, I wouldn't clean them out at this point.
Were your cars wiggling down the track? Is this why you want to add more steer?
I would just do the Pledge on the axles and add more of the DD4H graphite. The wheel bores should have a good burnish of graphite in them now, I wouldn't clean them out at this point.
Were your cars wiggling down the track? Is this why you want to add more steer?
I wouldn't burnish again. The whole purpose of burnishing is to work the graphite into the wheel bore either by multiple runs or by hand. You've already burnished and done runs. Seems like a waste to start over. Just pledge the axles again, return and add more graphite. Like GravityX said, I'd only add more steer if your car was wobbling down the track. The 1/2" over 3' does seem like its not enough to me, but I don't know your setup. If it wobbled, add more. Safe rule of thumb is 4" over 4'.
- Nov 24, 2011
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GravityX said:
+1
Only add steer if the car got squirrely down the track. /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif
I had a little wobble, but it was also on a older wooden track covered with fomicha and was a little rough . I also want to insure I am getting enough graphite in the bore. Is there some way of getting that in there as the axles make it tough to get it in there without wasting any?
By the way Kinser was a big help on several occasions and I would be remissed if I didn't send out a big thank you his way. We also will be racing on a much nicer aluminum track with winner being determined by the average best time of 4 races versus the first to cross the line on each race. I was a little aggressive with my weight,on one car with COG at 3/4 inch in front of back axle and the other at about 1 1/8th on the other. Is that too much?
By the way Kinser was a big help on several occasions and I would be remissed if I didn't send out a big thank you his way. We also will be racing on a much nicer aluminum track with winner being determined by the average best time of 4 races versus the first to cross the line on each race. I was a little aggressive with my weight,on one car with COG at 3/4 inch in front of back axle and the other at about 1 1/8th on the other. Is that too much?
Thank you ... feel pretty fourtunate to have the good direction I have had on this site.IAE Racing said:
Can I use a syringe to get dd4h graphite in the hubs... the dispenser is not small enought to get it in while the axles are in place? also do you recommend packing the axles ...I am also a little worried that one of the axles is more than the 2.5 cant. Suggestions????
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You can use it if you'd like. I wouldn't pack the graphite. At this point you're probably best to leave the axle. This probably isn't optimal but if something happens while trying to correct it, it'll be worse. Does that make sense?
I have used a swizel stick (drink mixing straw) cut at a forty-five. Dip it in the bottle like a spoon, then dribble in. I did not have luck with a Syringe.
It certainly does ... I have a couple axles I polised as extras... wondered if I should swap it... I thinkI will just add more graphite and runit ... it was good enough to get us to district mabe it is me just being that nit-pickyKinser Racing said:
Awesome thanks for the tip... it certainly will save me the hassle of trying to buy just a syringe at the feed store... they give you some strange looks.IAE Racing said:
We also undercut the bottom of the axle hole on angle to the bottom of the car, leaving just a very thin wood ridge under it, to both get more access to the bore for replenishing graphite, as well as minimizing contact surface. Not sure I explained that well enough, but we used a square file on about a 45 degree angle to make the slot.
+1 on the straw. There were graphite vendors that supplied a really small, hard plastic straw cut on an angle for this purpose. Their graphite wasn't the best, but I liked their straw !
Just so glad that other than rare occassion, those graphite days are OVER !!!
+1 on the straw. There were graphite vendors that supplied a really small, hard plastic straw cut on an angle for this purpose. Their graphite wasn't the best, but I liked their straw !
Just so glad that other than rare occassion, those graphite days are OVER !!!
- Nov 24, 2011
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Something I did is went to Hobby Lobby and bought the XLR8 graphite as I ordered John to late.. Now that John graphite is here I am trying the needle tip on his bottle to get it into the hub more just before turn in ... I will have to look into your practice guaddad sounds like a good thing there...
I agree with you all Graphite SUX... We had a Scout make a slice cheese car and it is really cool ... After working on his car at the pack race with him it looks moldy... Man that stuff is nasty and clings to everything.. Thank God for Awesome cleaner...
Papa V
I agree with you all Graphite SUX... We had a Scout make a slice cheese car and it is really cool ... After working on his car at the pack race with him it looks moldy... Man that stuff is nasty and clings to everything.. Thank God for Awesome cleaner...
Papa V
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