Questions about oils? I don't know what I don't know...

[PxTx]

I orded a bunch of stuff from John about a week and a half ago. I expect tho recieve my 1st shipment, including the video this Thusday. I don't know anything yet about the oils for wheel prep. I figured once I educated myself I could buy the right oils and stuff for my needs.

Turns out I have a race I would like to build a car for this Sunday. Rather than wait for the video, I wanted to ask recommendations for oils and such which might be more attainable locally. I've read the Jig a loo thread and saw the mention of liquid wrench too.

It's just a local cub scout event, but I would like to continue to run the car for a long time. Don't want an incpatible oil or anything. What I've read the VW delaerships use Krytox 105 foe door seals and should be available in a small bottle locally.

I also have this stuff I use to lube motorcycle cables:

http://www.fluoramics.com/lubit8.shtml

Do you see any problems with this kind of oil with teflon? I know it might no be as great as the Krytox but what would you do as a rookie? I bought a predrilled pine block, wheels, axles, Blue thunder and the video from John.

 

[Kinser Racing]

There's really only one thing I know about these things, there's no way to know without trying it. Believe me when I say this stuff is hit or miss with most of it being miss. Do you have anything to polish your wheel bores yet? What about your axles? Krytox 105 might work, I think it's a touch thicker than the stuff we use here. If I was in your shoes, with the knowledge that you now have. I'd polish my wheel bores and axles and go get some Hobe Lube graphite from the local hobby shop. A properly set up car running graphite is still pretty fast, and I'll bet most guys there will be using graphite. But this would eliminate using the wheels for oil later on. But IIRC you are mainly in this for the nostalgia right? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[PxTx]

Thanks for the quick feedback. The reason I was persuaded to move away form graphite is that it seems to make more of a mess on the track and the surrounding areas of my basement, on your hands (and the hands os my young kids) and oil is typically faster. I'm nostalgic but I also don't like to loose.

I think I'll try this stuff and see, but would love to have heard someone else's comments. Are mediocre oils faster than good graphite?

 

[Kinser Racing]

If you wait, I'm sure you'll get other opinions. As to your last question, I would say "No". In order to be really fast with oil, you really need Johns "Oil Secrets Unlocked" video first. There's far to much info in there to go into it here. You didn't tell us if you had the stuff to polish your wheel bores, axles and what it is you have. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Absolutely not! I have tried MANY oils and I would never run anything blind. I can beat most every oil i ever tried with a graphite car. The Krytox is the only oil i have had any success with personally.

 

[PxTx]

I do have the wheel bore polishing kit comming. I bought both these items:

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Zero-Friction-Wheel-Bore-Polishing-Kit-POL-KW.htm

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Blue-Thunder-Axle-Treatment-POL-BLUET.htm

I also have the video comming, but by the time it arrives, I'll have little time to search for the rest of the "secrets" I'll have learned. Like I said, till then I don't know what I don't know.

Basically what I'm hoping to learn is if John's mix is #1 and straight Krytox is #2 in speed, is there something readily available locally that can be #3? Heck, it the Krytox 100 is available from a storefront I'd be down with that. I live in a suburb of Philadelphia and would be surprised if the stuff wasn't somewhere locally.

 

[Kinser Racing]

I do have the wheel bore polishing kit coming. I bought both these items:

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Zero-Friction-Wheel-Bore-Polishing-Kit-POL-KW.htm

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Blue-Thunder-Axle-Treatment-POL-BLUET.htm

I also have the video coming, but by the time it arrives, I'll have little time to search for the rest of the "secrets" I'll have learned. Like I said, till then I don't know what I don't know.

Basically what I'm hoping to learn is if John's mix is #1 and straight Krytox is #2 in speed, is there something readily available locally that can be #3? Heck, it the Krytox 100 is available from a storefront I'd be down with that. I live in a suburb of Philadelphia and would be surprised if the stuff wasn't somewhere locally.

Your best bet without waiting is definitely Hobe Lube graphite. I have never found the Krytox locally, but I don't know who carries what where you are. You could literally spend days calling around locally and still have no luck. IMHO you have two choices wait or build a graphite car. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

P.S. You have some fantastic products coming your way, excellent choices.

 

[PxTx]

Thanks for the comments. I also bought :

Wheels

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/The-Dynasty-Nitro-set-of-4-wheels-W-N.htm

Axles

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/The-Dynasty-93G-Super-Axle-with-BSA-Point-A-93SGA.htm

Looks like I may have screwed up. When I ordered my pre drilled pine block I selected normal and now it looks like the Awana hole is what the 93 axles are? Looks like I have a lot to learn. Maybe the lube won't be my biggest problem.

 

[Obsession Racing]

No...you are fine! The 93's pair up well with those wheels. If the holes are too small, then you can push the axle in/out a few times to loosen it up. Be careful that you don't bend the axle at the groove! I assume that your rules allow for lightened wheels? That would be my only concern at this point. If you follow DD4H's prep, and use those wheels/axles along with a pre-drilled block, you will SMOKE the competition.

O.R.

 

[Kinser Racing]

Looks like I may have screwed up. When I ordered my pre drilled pine block I selected normal and now it looks like the Awana hole is what the 93 axles are? Looks like I have a lot to learn. Maybe the lube won't be my biggest problem.

You'll still be OK. Just go get a #43 drill bit from an industrial supply store. It's more difficult to use without a pin vise but you can wrap it really tight with electrical tape and it will work to ream the holes, temporarily.The pin vise http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Pin-Vise-T-003.htm is a lot easier though.

 

[PxTx]

I have wanted to build a sleeper. Thinking about rounding the nose of the block a bit and using it unpainted and looking like nothing special. I know it isn't the recipe for ultimate speed, but should be a big fish in a small pond. Really appreciate the input guys.

I don't really know what the rules are, but I'm not going as a Scout. They have a race for friends and family. No trophy to go after. As far as I'm concerned, the oil will be relatively dry and undectectable, the wheels will have all markings and the block is a standard wheelbase. I picked up some "drops" from blocks of wood that some others were cutting last weekend at the workshop. I'm gonna claim it is a car built from "scraps" if anyone tries to call me out on the lack of axle slots.

 

[PxTx]

Thanks for the solution wiht the pin vice. I do have one already, and may have the drill bit too.

 

[derby freak]

With a good straight drill bit the axle hole will be a little small for the axle so be be careful when inserting the axle. The axle should insert into the axle hole with medium pressure. You shouldn't have to push real hard to get the axle in the hole. So just take your drill bit and keep running it in by hand unil you axle fit the way you want it to. If the hole is too tight, you may get the axle in but you will more thn likely bend the axle and if you are using wheels other than the ones like you run in the street stock class you wiil more than likely not get them back out without breaking them. As for lube, I agree with Kinser totally. I have tried different oils, but nothing beats Krytox DD4h mix that I have found. Go with the graphite if you don't have Krytox.

 

[datnr]

Be very careful with axles that fit too tight. I broke a Rage Extreme trying to pull an axle. Those Nitros may be thinner. Use old or kit wheels until the drilled holes loosen up enough

 

[PxTx]

I could use some help on the wheel prep. I'll follow the video, but I have these skinny things in the middle and I am confused on what they are called. The instructions wiht the kit don't seem to follow the video perfectly and don't know if the vide is oudated now or what.

What is the difference btween a "no scratch applicator" and a pipe cleaner with a anti-scratch cover?

 

[Kinser Racing]

The no scratch applicator has the small shaft. Neither the DVD or instructions are outdated, but may slightly differ, like a variation on a theme. If you follow either as closely as possible you will be in great shape. I have followed the DVD to a "T" and been very successful. /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif

 

[Guest]

Good LUCK!!!! You should do just fine

 

[OPARENNEN]

I used the pipe cleaners first, then the small stemmed applicators. I don't notice any difference, except that you have to be careful with the pipe cleaners, because the center wires can scratch the bores. But if you are careful, they both do the job fine.

 

[PxTx]

Got it all done tonight and had my kids running the cars up and down the track. The new car will get a run tomorrow at the cub event. It seems to run pretty good, but I may want to play with the alignment.

My "tiger" baseline car ran pretty well on the test and tune with the cub scouts last week. It wasn't the fastest, but was never more than 3/4 behind any of the cars there. The new car seemed to be at least 1.5 sometimes 2 car lengths ahead on my old wooden track. Only did about 7-8 passes.

One thing that kinda scared me was that the right rear wheel got slow. The kids weren't handeling them as gently as I would and I thought maybe something got bent. As a last resort, I took compressed air and blew out the axle. I saw a little oil cloud come out and then the wheel was spinning well again. Dirt?

Should I drop some oil in form the back side? The holes were a bit small and I thought I opened them up enough, but after paint they are now tight. I don't have axle pliers yet and think pulling a wheel is too much to risk beaking something the day of the race. Thoughts? Car ran 2 lengths ahead of the baseline car immediatly after the blow out.

 

[Quicktimederby]

Do not reapply it will slow the car down. If you are worried about the prep start at the beginning.