Shipping box questions

Thinkin'Bout Racin

National Contender
Feb 20, 2017
574
325
63
IMG_2966.JPG
This is for anyone, but maybe John could make a video? ;)

I have watched both versions that are out there on how to fit the foam to your car and the videos help a lot!!

I built a jig to hold the foam and did the first car ...all went well. However this car does not have fenders. I am wondering what is the best way to fit the foam around the fenders? I know I could trim the compound angles with an exacto knife, but am wondering if there is a better way?

Any and all help/ ideas are welcome.

BTW! I used car wax on the wood of the jig and it really made it easy to slide the router. I built my jig with the outer boards about 0.010" - 0.015" below the level of the foam from the shipping boxes.

So , now I have a couple of cars that will have GEE fenders and I don't want to butcher the shipping boxes.

Thanks!
 
Outline the fendered car on the foam same as you would a BASX. Route out the intire area outlined at a depth equal to the thickness of the car body. Drop your router bit down another 3/8" & route out just the area where the fenders will be. Easy peasy!
You need your jig to be a little higher than the foam so your router sits flat on the jig & not on the foam.
You're on the right track, that's a nice looking jig!
 
Last edited:
Good stuff! I am kicking around the idea of trying to make MAPWD end of the month. I'll be making my own box. Just so I can start looking at pricing, what is the typical weight ready to ship boxes come out to? On average of course using latest recommended methods for building the box.

Thx!
Jimmy
 
Outline the fendered car on the foam same as you would a BASX. Route out the intire area outlined at a depth equal to the thickness of the car body. Drop your router bit down another 3/8" & route out just the area where the fenders will be. Easy peasy!
You need your jig to be a little higher than the foam so your router sits flat on the jig & not on the foam.
You're on the right track, that's a nice looking jig!

Ballistic,

Thanks for the ideas! So if I am understanding you correctly, you don't match the angle of the fenders as they taper back to the body on the under side? Rather, you just match the outer dimension and "relief" cut for the fender?

Thanks for the kind words on the jig. I threw together some scraps that I had lying around. Once the weight of the router is on the foam, it feels like the outer boards and the top of the foam are flush from the weight of the router. I watched John's vidieo closely and it appears that he has the foam significantly higher than the wood. I figured that I wanted it as close to the same height as possible, so the router would glide seemlessly from the foam to the wood and back again. I also figured that this would increase the size of the base that the router had to sit on.

I did check the height of the foam from several boxes.
 
Last edited:
Two more things. Make sure you pack your cars upright in the shipping box like they would run, and not sideways. I didn't break anything but I did that the last time and from what I hear, I was lucky.

Second thing. Lightly, carefully, hit your foam with a heat gun to glaze the outside of the foam. You can try to wipe or blow off all those fringes but some might still come loose later and I have found a bit of black foam inside one of my wheel bores on a re-prep. You can imagine how that could happen during shipping. Just like lint in your bore, it is a speed killer. This is cheap insurance against that. Just enough so that those small fringes are melted to the rest of the foam.
 
Two more things. Make sure you pack your cars upright in the shipping box like they would run, and not sideways. I didn't break anything but I did that the last time and from what I hear, I was lucky.

Second thing. Lightly, carefully, hit your foam with a heat gun to glaze the outside of the foam. You can try to wipe or blow off all those fringes but some might still come loose later and I have found a bit of black foam inside one of my wheel bores on a re-prep. You can imagine how that could happen during shipping. Just like lint in your bore, it is a speed killer. This is cheap insurance against that. Just enough so that those small fringes are melted to the rest of the foam.

I did wonder about all of the fringes ...I did clean a bunch of them off after I snapped the picture. I used a sharp exacto knife, but it took a while. I will probably try the heat gun tip. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Good stuff! I am kicking around the idea of trying to make MAPWD end of the month. I'll be making my own box. Just so I can start looking at pricing, what is the typical weight ready to ship boxes come out to? On average of course using latest recommended methods for building the box.

Thx!
Jimmy
:D
 
View attachment 442 This is for anyone, but maybe John could make a video? ;)

I have watched both versions that are out there on how to fit the foam to your car and the videos help a lot!!

I built a jig to hold the foam and did the first car ...all went well. However this car does not have fenders. I am wondering what is the best way to fit the foam around the fenders? I know I could trim the compound angles with an exacto knife, but am wondering if there is a better way?

Any and all help/ ideas are welcome.

BTW! I used car wax on the wood of the jig and it really made it easy to slide the router. I built my jig with the outer boards about 0.010" - 0.015" below the level of the foam from the shipping boxes.

So , now I have a couple of cars that will have GEE fenders and I don't want to butcher the shipping boxes.

Thanks!
I did do a video!
 
I did do a video!

Yes, I saw the video ... And it was VERY helpful!!!! Obviously, I wasn't clear. What I meant to say, was that I was hoping for a video that addressed how you compensate for a car with fenders (unless there is already a vid on a car with fenders that I have missed). I will look again in the premium section and see if I missed it?

Thanks
 
Yes, I saw the video ... And it was VERY helpful!!!! Obviously, I wasn't clear. What I meant to say, was that I was hoping for a video that addressed how you compensate for a car with fenders (unless there is already a vid on a car with fenders that I have missed). I will look again in the premium section and see if I missed it?

Thanks
Here's a pic from John's site and a link to the page. Hope that helps. Looks like its trimmed out.
http://derbydad4hire.com/Legend-Car-Carrier-ship-001.htm
fenders in box.jpeg
 
Yes, I saw the video ... And it was VERY helpful!!!! Obviously, I wasn't clear. What I meant to say, was that I was hoping for a video that addressed how you compensate for a car with fenders (unless there is already a vid on a car with fenders that I have missed). I will look again in the premium section and see if I missed it?

Thanks

I think the answer to your question is no they do not angle the foam to match the angle of the fenders they just make it deeper in that section. But I have not made one yet so I am not a hundred percent.
 
Here's a pic from John's site and a link to the page. Hope that helps. Looks like its trimmed out.
http://derbydad4hire.com/Legend-Car-Carrier-ship-001.htm
View attachment 445

I had seen that also, but that was from when he was still using a band saw to notch for the wheel locations. I believe that it might be a set of earlier fenders (since they are only on the rears).

I thought maybe there was a new way or excepted practice to cut the foam for the various fender styles.

Thanks.
 
I use a long blade in The Knife Of Exact Zero to trim my foam to the angle of my fenders. I like it to be as supported as possible. Buy an extra piece of foam or two when you order shipping boxes just in case you struggle with one.
 
I use a long blade in The Knife Of Exact Zero to trim my foam to the angle of my fenders. I like it to be as supported as possible. Buy an extra piece of foam or two when you order shipping boxes just in case you struggle with one.

Thanks Bracket,

I like the idea of some extra "test pieces" to butcher, ...I mean fit. Next time I order something, I will included some extra test pieces. In fact, with my skill level, I may need to order a dozen! ;)

I also watched John's video again (I think this was the 6th time). I may need to try a bit faster speed with the forstner bit? It sounded like John's press was running faster than what I had mine set to and it seems like his wheel pockets were cleaner after drilling?
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the ideas! So if I am understanding you correctly, you don't match the angle of the fenders as they taper back to the body on the under side? Rather, you just match the outer dimension and "relief" cut for the fender?
I don't like anything touching my fenders on the under side, one good throw from the postman & the fender snaps off.
 
Ok, I have received a couple of good ideas from a couple of solid sources! I also have received logic as to why each one likes to do it the way they do. For those that remember the comercials .. I guess it is like Buger King- you can have your way. :)

Thanks to all that have replied and to any that still do as I am trying to absorb as much of this as I can ...THANKS, THANKS, THANKS!!!