Since the NPWDRL is stepping up........

bracketracer

0
Pro Racer
Mar 21, 2013
1,768
151
63
12
STL
I better step up my game also!

Since I've been using a scrap piece of MDF board as a tuning board for the last year, I decided to build an actual tuning table. I liked Rocket car's idea of using a guide strip at the beginning of the board to align the car with the table and set the wheels I made sure to make the table long enough. Maglev had brought over a mirror he had modded with the guide and it was easier to use so I knew it was a must have. I had two quartersawn white oak boards and some scraps left over from a dining room table I built ten years ago to make the case. I downloaded the tuning board graphic from 5kids racing's site and had it printed by a friend with a blueprint printer. My logos all printed in black & white but I'm OK with that since the price was right! I bought a sheet of 1/2" MDF to support the graphic under the glass and had a local glass shop cut a piece of 1/4" glass to size. They also sanded the edge so I could handle it easier during the install. I was originally going to get tempered glass but the shop talked me out of it. Since the glass is fully supported by the MDF and the crossmembers there's no chance of falling shards if it should ever get broken. They also said it was good that I had added supports along the length because a piece of glass this large may sag in the middle over time. I didn't know that, I thought glass was pretty rigid. I made it roughly 25" by 70". One end is attached from the inside with screws in case the glass would ever need to be replaced. Here's some pics:

IMG_0641.jpg

I had to make one of the dovetails shorter to hide the dado on the end.

IMG_0638.jpg

I still need to put a finsh on, make a cap for the memory foam bumper and the guide strips but you get the idea.
IMG_0664.jpg
IMG_0666.jpg

One thing I found, using a different surface to check the steer gives a different result. My MDF board showed 5" of steer on a car, the same car was 6 1/2" on glass. I guess that points out the importance of always tuning on the same surface?
 
I found less steer when going from wood to glass surface. I assumed the car had less surface friction for the DFW to grab and steer.
 
Rocket car said:
Ps: make your center rail long as you can. 1.5 ft is best.

Good! 18" is what I was shooting for. The stick in the pic was just for testing. I had the printer leave an extra two feet of paper at the start end of the graphic so I could trim it to fit. Worked out well!
I think I might add one long straight rail down the middle so I can watch how the car tracks over the guide.

Hey, if you're hiring, how much are you offering and would I need to relocate?

Also +1 to what Kinser said. I think it's important to be consistent on what surface you use so you can produce consistent results also.
 
I use a meter stick that I bias to the side that I steer into and have the full center rail width marked on the board. That works pretty good to see how the back end tracks once the DFW runs the rail.
 
Great looking table! I have been using MDF on the countertop. I have limited space and was thinking of making a tuning table a foot wide do you guys think that would work?

Craig
 
Wow- you do great work!! I'm Diggin' the dovetails.

Has anyone tried using a wide roll of aluminum foil to cover the glass or MDF? Not sure how one would go about getting the lines on it but the surface would at least be more consistent. To make it even more accurate, one could wipe it down with Pledge since it appears to be a fairly standard practice in the derby world.
 
Mine is only 16" wide. I test the drift placing the car on one side, not in the middle. I can only test up to 8" of drift, but if I need more than that, the car is subject to circular saw circumcision.
 
Hi Stephen,
That looks great!
Nice Dovetails!
Please post a photo of the finished product
Way to step up fella
 
B_Regal Racing said:
Mine is only 16" wide. I test the drift placing the car on one side, not in the middle. I can only test up to 8" of drift, but if I need more than that, the car is subject to circular saw circumcision.
I was thinking that since I set my cars to drift to the left.

Thanks Craig
 
I built a table almost identical to the one above,except that my craftsmanship on the frame was not nearly so good. However I have some important suggestions, make your table eight feet long. Don't be tempted to use four feet. That extra 4 feet is very meaningful, especially if you have a test track to use as you adjust the steer.
Secondly, I secured the glass on mine so I could store the table on its side or end.
3rd,I put a piece of foam at the end, so the car would bounce back, so when comparing two cars in the same class, I can get an idea which car will probably be worth spending more tuning time on. I.e., the one that bounces back the furthest will likely be the best.
Third, I installed four height adjustment brackets on the four corners so I am sure the table is absolutely level, side to side.
Fourth, I did draw a line down the middle with a Sharpie, which I use when tuning ELIM and UNLM cars.
As an aside, I raise the front end of the table two inches, which I find best so the cars don't roll too swiftly.
 
A foot wide is plenty. You just have to mark your start position close to the sides. You can use two colors to mark left and right measurements. I only have a straight rail drawn all the way down to lay my meter stick down to check how it rides after I set the drift. I didn't do the curved lines, just marked the inches at the bottom.
 
Eliminator Racing said:
Great looking table! I have been using MDF on the countertop. I have limited space and was thinking of making a tuning table a foot wide do you guys think that would work?

Craig

Craig, If you'll click on the tuning board graphic link I posted, scroll to the bottom of the page, and click on the last download I think you'll find what you need. I believe that one is about a foot wide.
 
OPARENNEN said:
I built a table almost identical to the one above,except that my craftsmanship on the frame was not nearly so good. However I have some important suggestions, make your table eight feet long. Don't be tempted to use four feet. That extra 4 feet is very meaningful, especially if you have a test track to use as you adjust the steer. Secondly, I secured the glass on mine so I could store the table on its side or end. 3rd,I put a piece of foam at the end, so the car would bounce back, so when comparing two cars in the same class, I can get an idea which car will probably be worth spending more tuning time on. I.e., the one that bounces back the furthest will likely be the best. Third, I installed four height adjustment brackets on the four corners so I am sure the table is absolutely level, side to side. Fourth, I did draw a line down the middle with a Sharpie, which I use when tuning ELIM and UNLM cars. As an aside, I raise the front end of the table two inches, which I find best so the cars don't roll too swiftly.

I would of loved to have an eight foot table but I'm short on space. Six feet was all I could squeeze in and still walk around it.
Good idea on the bounce back! When I have the table apart for finishing I'll have to sketch in a rebound gauge.
Can you elaborate on how you use the Sharpie line or is it a secret? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
I wasn't sure how much pitch to put on it, I went with 0.5 degrees (about a half inch over six feet more or less). It rolls pretty slow. I might need to add a little more. That could be why my observed steer changed? I was using more pitch on the old MDF board. Maybe I was getting a little more side slip with the steeper pitch?
 
OPARENNEN said:
I did draw a line down the middle with a Sharpie, which I use when tuning ELIM and UNLM cars.

Cool idea...

OPARENNEN said:
As an aside, I raise the front end of the table two inches, which I find best so the cars don't roll too swiftly.

You ARE speaking of an 8' tuning board and NOT a 4' tuning board, correct? 2" over 4' is a speed track.