So what does it REALLY take to run sub-3 here or at the Mid-America?

Mar 5, 2013
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So let's say I was going to enter my son's District winner in the Mid America. He could run Open Scout, I guess.

He has Dynasty Rage wheels. Stock Chinese axles. Stock wheel base. Car is drilled canted in the rear, was a 4 wheel touching, but I could change it to 3 down.

So...that class is graphite, and it seems they have one for oil, too.

I see last year the top 12 were sub-3 cars.

What wheels are the best for that class? And obviously I'd need axles, too.

Or...if we decided to send it in here, what changes, and what class is it closest to fitting in?

Not sure how serious I am about it right now. I know I'm slowly building up to sending a car or two in, but I'm just gathering info about how much more we need to do to at least make it halfway respectable.
 
PLUS:

But be sure the steer is set right. 4" over 4 feet. 12 - 16 inches over 8 feet.

Be sure rear wheels are perfectly parallel using Silver Bullet. Plus all the rest of prep.
To go sub-3, read all you can on the forum about car prep, and body prep (e.g. axle placement).

If they allow you to stage your car, do it. Bad staging makes a big difference.
 
If you make your current car a 3 wheel rail runner, and it's properly weighted, I think you could crack the top third. It may be higher though because looking at last years results included both oil and graphite cars in the same class. to be a top competitor, you'll need what's on DD4H's list.

It's fun to send in either way, the viewing at home experience is being upgraded, but patience is warranted in getting results.

If you do make an upgrade in parts, be sure to add the legend carrier for safe keeping.
 
Well, I think the mid american track is a lot faster. My son's scout car rand a 2.97 on graphite at mid american last year. The fastest cars were in the 2.92 range. I sent an oil car in to NPWDRL and it did horrible and ran in the 3.08 range. I am not sure if something was wrong with the car (like the fenders touching the rail or the alignment). Either way, it seemed the mid-american track was a lot faster.
 
Remember, every track and every time it is set up can be different. Even at your pack, the same track set up the same way in the same place can vary to some degree. The Ma cars running 2.92 were running super lite wheels. Your ss was running 2 gram wheels.
 
Just an FYI, if you get the Nitro wheels and plan on running street stock for the NPWDRL, youll have to change to the Cheeta v3 so they're at least 2g
 
IAE Racing said:
If you make your current car a 3 wheel rail runner, and it's properly weighted, I think you could crack the top third. It may be higher though because looking at last years results included both oil and graphite cars in the same class. to be a top competitor, you'll need what's on DD4H's list.

It's fun to send in either way, the viewing at home experience is being upgraded, but patience is warranted in getting results.

If you do make an upgrade in parts, be sure to add the legend carrier for safe keeping.

We did build it with more weight on the DFW side, and had the other front Just. Barely. Touching.

It'd be easy to raise it up so it doesn't touch.

I'm sure my drill job isn't as good as one done on the Silver Bullet, but I don't think it's that bad, either. Either way, I'd like to see how it does with better running gear.
Car moved 4" in 4'.
Dynasty Rages were bore polished, Red Rocketed, and burnished with DD4H graphite. Guess we'd need the Nitro's.

Axles were the Revell Chinese ones...they were straighter out of the box and much easier to polish. Obviously they'd have to go, I guess in favor of what....the 92X's? (Assuming we run the graphite class)
Axles were polished and then had Pledge on them. (like that trick)

Now I see those Mid America Nitros' are made to be run inside out.....is that just for an oil car or for graphite, too?
 
yes the 92s grooved would be the way to go. I would suggest getting one bent so you can see what they look like. the MA nitros can be run either oil or graphite and are designed for the rears to be run inside out. you will also need the derlin spacers to do this. (not the washers) although you can use a washer on the DFW.

Don't forget the carrier!
 
Check your rears, roll it back and forth on your test surface. If the wheels navigate toward the car in either direction your drilling is off! What was your Camber?
 
The Iceman said:
Check your rears, roll it back and forth on your test surface. If the wheels navigate toward the car in either direction your drilling is off! What was your Camber?

Wheels run out on the axle heads.

Can't say the exact camber, but it's canted. Used a Pro Body tool with a drill bit under one side of the wood block. I've have to look at the exact bit size I used, but the angle is very similar to a Plug and Play block my daughter used last year. Obviously, I know that eyeballing it isn't exact, but it's what I had at the time and it seems to have worked pretty well. A whole lot more accurate than trying to put them in cambered in the stock slot. I drilled the holes, then connected the dots.