wheel base

Feb 5, 2012
20
0
1
13
ok guys,
john said yall are the men,so here goes i am very ticky builder who
built cars on a 5/8 from front and 5/8 from rear of car base.I have beat every one in state but three guys who i respect and one told me i was going to have to change my wheel base,all three run this base,which is johns 5in. base so for three months and 27 cars ive tried tobeat last years times on my track.(times of avrage 2.5100 and 2.5200)but the fastest time i can get is 2.5350.the three guys i am trying to catch are ave. 2.4800.
so here is question what do i change when i chage wheel base from my old base to new base to reach these speeds as i have slowed down not sped up? I AM DESPERATE!
 
what kind of wheels are you running, what is the com, are the wheels canted, what weight are the wheels, what kind of axles are they, if it is canted whats the steer, what lube are you using?
all would help us answer your questions. also, what length track?
 
Drill three holes in the body for your DFW at different wheel bases and run the car at all three locations. Pick the one that does best for you then run the car at that wheelbase and move to another area to try to gain some speed.
 
As Freaky and DNA have touched on there is more to the equation than a simple wheel base change. Please post the build rules so we can give you a full set up to give you a solid chance at success.
 
first thaks for replying guys
the wheels i use are royal racers out of TN. they are ra wheels,i c@c them to perfection they are 3grams,axels are91sga lube is derbydad4 hire and set up .they are rail riding,3wheels touch dominate wheel is canted 2.5 to 3 degrees,com is 5/8 to 3/4 and track is 31.5ft. timer is set at 30.5ft,
I have only changed wheel base from old set up, and reason is last to years only three people in our races here have been able to beat me and they use jonns wheel base set up. if there is something in this info you see wrong please let me know it would be a mental releaf
 
also rules are pretty standerd ra and awanas,cars must be 5oz.have to use 4 wheel but 3 can touch you can use oil or grafite,no bearings,car has to be 7in. or less
 
rick7777777 said:
first thaks for replying guys
the wheels i use are royal racers out of TN. they are ra wheels,i c@c them to perfection they are 3grams,axels are91sga lube is derbydad4 hire and set up .they are rail riding,3wheels touch dominate wheel is canted 2.5 to 3 degrees,com is 5/8 to 3/4 and track is 31.5ft. timer is set at 30.5ft,
I have only changed wheel base from old set up, and reason is last to years only three people in our races here have been able to beat me and they use jonns wheel base set up. if there is something in this info you see wrong please let me know it would be a mental releaf

Unfortunately, most of us don't have a lot of experience with RA kits, but here are a few observations I can make:

  • If I remember correctly, the RA wheels have a larger bore dimension than BSA. I would suggest Dynasty 93's for sure.

  • You mentioned that you CNC the wheels. Must they remain in the stock dimension, or can they be reduced? If I am correct, the RA wheels are solid plastic, and can be turned down to about 1.5g or less and made into a razor wheel.

  • The other wheel issue that I see is that the stock wheel may have a tendency to hit the body because the hub does not stick out far enough to maintain a gap for the outer wheel. This, obviously, would be solved if you turn down the wheels into razors. If you need to maintain the full weight wheel, then possibly using a spacer can help?

  • LUBE: This is critical. Attention to detail is very important here. I can tell you that 3 different people use the "same process" can get 3 different results, always dependent on their attention to detail. There were at least 5-6 cars in our Pack race using DD4H products, but the time difference was around .035 between 1st and 5th (yes, my son's was 1st /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif )

  • STEER: The amount of steer can be a big effect....getting the right steer can make up that difference as well. Remember, too much can be as bad as not enough.
That's all I've got.....I'm sure others will have comments.

O.R.
 
rick7777777 said:
also rules are pretty standerd ra and awanas,cars must be 5oz.have to use 4 wheel but 3 can touch you can use oil or grafite,no bearings,car has to be 7in. or less

Just noticed O.R. post.....he has it covered
 
If the wheels have been reduced to razors, make sure the your fdw has enough positive cant that it only contacts the at the very bottom of the wheel what it is actually riding on. I you are contacting the rail all the way up you are scrubbing a ton of speed.
 
I run in the RA class here in Georgia and the last two years I have run a 5 1/4"
wheel base. This year I am running a 4 7/8" wheelbase
AddEmoticons08013
 
thanks for all the advice everyone.
renegade hows the results on those wheel base settings,ya been running good times
 
They run well. I will say this though I built an extended wheelbase test car like the one you describe and on a wooden track it was unbeatable. It had a 1/4" steer in 4'. I still use it as my wheel test car. Never been able to duplicate it.

There are a lot more factors involved than just wheelbase.
 
rick7777777 said:
renegade
could i ask what kind of times you are running on a aluminum track with short wheel base47/8

I am running 2.51s on my track but each track is different.