1/16 cut for DFW Options
- Thread starter aircooled
- Start date
You could build out the rear of the car on the DFW side by 1/16" (a popsicle stick's width). However, if you are canting the rear wheels, you will exceed the 2-3/4" max width. Rears at straight vertical is no problem.
aircooled said:
Just don't make the cut, if you are negative canting your rears and making a fairly stiff bend to your DFW the rears will stay off the rail.... I have built many cars and made no cut-back and they run fine.
If you don't want to cut it out you can sand your DFW side down a little and fade it to the rears. Without looking hard you can't tell it's thinned down.
Isn't the concept of cutting the 1/16 two fold. 1. to keep rears away from the rail and 2. keep the whole body parallel with the rail? Therefore not putting a small dogtrack into the car. This is where you want to sit it on the rail, roll it a ways and do a lot of precise measuring!
There is probably a measurement in there like if your axle is 3degree = 1/16 3.5= 1/32 4=1/64
Could somebody get that for me? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
other contributers
1. width of washer
2. and of course inches per foot. (micro difference)
There is probably a measurement in there like if your axle is 3degree = 1/16 3.5= 1/32 4=1/64
Could somebody get that for me? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
other contributers
1. width of washer
2. and of course inches per foot. (micro difference)
- Nov 24, 2011
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The Iceman said:
That seems like a lot of calculating for your curiosity. You can do it! /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif
The Iceman said:
The offset of the DFW will have no effect on keeping the body aligned with the guide rail, but you can use it to center the rears over the rail. If it dogtracks, it's because the rears might be drilled parallel to each other but not perpendicular to the centerline of the car.
For a rail rider the purpose of removing or narrowing the car on the dominant side is to insure that when the dominant wheel is against the rail the centerline of the car coincides with the center line of the track rail. So 1/16" is just an approximation. I mark the front of the car at its center line before narrowing the front. Then with the dominant wheel installed I place the car on the track to see how much material I need to remove so the two centerlines match. Make sure the rear of the car is lined up equally spaced on the rail when you do this. If the car does not sit perfectly in line with the rail it will move the car front center mark out of position. If you are using a spacer on the front wheel axel this can also be adjusted in width to aid in making the two center lines (car and track rail) coincide. Note that the width of the spacer you use will determine how much car material to remove. If you do not have a track you can make a simple wood rail of he correct width that matches the track you race on and use that as described. Hope this helps.
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The Iceman said:bracketracer said:
Calculating Calculating
Welcome to my world Iceman.
It is tough to keep up with him.
I am telling you he has a slide rule in his head!
Along with an encyclopedia of course.
Oh I appreciate all the input I can get and the soaking of info has just begun! Its like a 3 legged chair will never wobble, a 3 wheel vehicle will always follows the front wheel no matter the placement.
I finally sat a car on my test rail the other day and pretty much came to the conclusion that you really don't have to cut the fenders underneath if you cut it @ 1/16. but that front DFW I probably would. (thats if you don't have to worry about wobble.)
I finally sat a car on my test rail the other day and pretty much came to the conclusion that you really don't have to cut the fenders underneath if you cut it @ 1/16. but that front DFW I probably would. (thats if you don't have to worry about wobble.)
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