2 gram wheels

[Mister B Racing]

On my SS AM car, 2nd Hand Smoke, I have been running the 2 gram wheels that have the tread bumps. I plan to put new wheels on that have the tread bumps removed. Is there a significant speed gain by not having the tread bumps?

I was going to turn my 2nd Hand Smoke car into a SP car but have decided to wait till this winter to do that. I am hoping it will be a good SP car just like it is a good SS car.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

WARNING - Inexperienced builder posting.

I did this exact test and thought there was an increase of a few 1000ths (I have a single lane Besttrack for tuning). With the bumps (e.g. fluting), there is a whine; without the bumps, the car runs quieter. The whine makes me think vibrations, the force to overcome each little bump, etc. With the bumps removed, the wheel surface touching the track is smooter and more true on the FDW (if it has positive camber). Or at least it is my guess. I can not say I saw any advantage to running wheels with no fluting on the rear.

When I purchase wheels from John, I get one set with the fluting removed, and only use them for the FDW. I use older hacked up wheels for the NFDW, and for the rears, I buy the normal 2g wheels (leave the fluting intact) to save some money, especially since the fluting does not touch the track.

It would be nice to have some confirmation that my thought process is correct; I do not always trust my tuning to be sure that the few 1000ths gained was the direct result of the fluting.

 

[GravityX]

Like B Regal said, buy the Cheetah V3 with the NPWDRL mod and use them at the DFW. Buy 2 sets without the NPWDRL mod and now you can outfit 4 cars and save a few bucks. 3 sets of wheels and build 4 cars and using a worn out wheel at the NDFW position. This is what I do, no need for NPWDRL modded wheels at the rears.

 

[HurriCrane Racing]

I ran the NPWDRL mod on both my cars this month and did not see a speed gain.
This could have more to do with prep than anything. They are much quieter. Makes it easier to hear if your DFW is rattling.

 

[Eliminator Racing]

WARNING - Inexperienced builder posting.

I did this exact test and thought there was an increase of a few 1000ths (I have a single lane Besttrack for tuning). With the bumps (e.g. fluting), there is a whine; without the bumps, the car runs quieter. The whine makes me think vibrations, the force to overcome each little bump, etc. With the bumps removed, the wheel surface touching the track is smooter and more true on the FDW (if it has positive camber). Or at least it is my guess. I can not say I saw any advantage to running wheels with no fluting on the rear.

When I purchase wheels from John, I get one set with the fluting removed, and only use them for the FDW. I use older hacked up wheels for the NFDW, and for the rears, I buy the normal 2g wheels (leave the fluting intact) to save some money, especially since the fluting does not touch the track.

It would be nice to have some confirmation that my thought process is correct; I do not always trust my tuning to be sure that the few 1000ths gained was the direct result of the fluting.

Thanks for the tip B Ragal I was going to buy a set with the bumps removed I can
see where I would have wasted three wheels I'm glad someone is thinking.

 

[Eliminator Racing]

Like B Regal said, buy the Cheetah V3 with the NPWDRL mod and use them at the DFW. Buy 2 sets without the NPWDRL mod and now you can outfit 4 cars and save a few bucks. 3 sets of wheels and build 4 cars and using a worn out wheel at the NDFW position. This is what I do, no need for NPWDRL modded wheels at the rears.

Three sets of wheels outfit 4 cars save some money you can't beat that with a stick!

GravityX, Thanks Craig