Applying graphite

ljo

0
Jan 27, 2012
119
50
28
13
I've never been a fan of graphite. I love the ease of an oil prep and the longevity. However, adhering to district rules and not wanting a guilty conscience we are going back to graphite.
What is the best method for applying graphite to get the longest lasting effect?
 
My graphite cars are getting close to my oil cars. Use one of John's polishes on the wheel bore and all friction points including where the wheels touch the body. Then rub the grahite into all the polished areas. I use John's polish then graphite on the axles as well. The polish helps the grahite adhere better. You'll be suprised by the results. If your car gets too much graphie on the paint, I use an oil based solution and small paint brush and gently swab the painted areas.
 
I have the old green dd4h axle polish and the brown bore polish. This was before the the 2 step polish was out. Previously id been doing my oil prep using jigaloo, and loved it.
 
I use the same polish for the wheels as I do the axles. The green polish is for smoothing out the surface of the axle. Use the green on the axles as before. Then polish the axles with the wheel polish just like you would the car body or the wheels. Graphite does not stick to metal very well. I'm testing some ski wax on the axles before the graphite. Good luck at the Derby.
 
Thanks, we got our version of the "silver sliver" complete. This is the fastest "legit" scout car to date. It keeps up with my oil car on our short track (best track with only one section installed) . It is 1/4" thick plank car, with 1/2" COG, bsa axles, trued wheels, and graphite for lube. 4 inches of steer in 4 feet with as much axle bend the DFW will allow. We'll see if she's sub 3 come Saturday!
 
Still no sub 3! 3.06 was our best time. Graphite started to fade after 3 runs. He still won the pack race, but the itch to run oil has returned. Maybe we will try a red rocket re prep.
 
Well done!
clap
 
has anyone tried to burnish the wheel hubs with compressed graphite pencils? 2B 4B 6B 8B
I just picked some up today. I bought some prepped wheels from Glen over at derby dudes. and hid wheel hubs are shiny with graphite and it don't wipe off. Just a thought
 
I'm sure the burnished idea has been tried on the wheel hubs, but using pencils. I haven't heard of that yet. It may have some merit. Does the 2B, 4B, etc... represent the softness or hardness of the graphite? I personally would try this out using the softest one first, on an old wheel, just to see how the wheel hub takes it. You don't want to tear up a new set of wheels and render them useless on a new idea. Old scrap wheels first.
 
I've heard/read that pencil graphite has clay blended in so that it grips paper better. I would not use it for PWD as lubricant. Graphite needs to be applied dry and burnished into the wheel bore along with John's red rocket using a polished 9200 metal rod or drill bit.
 
JimmyStile said:
has anyone tried to burnish the wheel hubs with compressed graphite pencils? 2B 4B 6B 8B
I just picked some up today. I bought some prepped wheels from Glen over at derby dudes. and his wheel hubs are shiny with graphite and it don't wipe off. Just a thought

If it doesn't wipe off it may not be graphite? WS2 leaves a shiny coating as will MoS2. You can use it as a base layer for adding graphite but don't put too much on. Keep it ultra thin. It will cake up and slow the car.
 
bracketracer said:
JimmyStile said:
has anyone tried to burnish the wheel hubs with compressed graphite pencils? 2B 4B 6B 8B
I just picked some up today. I bought some prepped wheels from Glen over at derby dudes. and his wheel hubs are shiny with graphite and it don't wipe off. Just a thought

If it doesn't wipe off it may not be graphite? WS2 leaves a shiny coating as will MoS2. You can use it as a base layer for adding graphite but don't put too much on. Keep it ultra thin. It will cake up and slow the car.

The WS2, when coating an object, only "stacks" 1 deep. In other words, once it (WS2) is laid down, you cannot add another layer of WS2 on top of it. It only coats 1 layer deep. The MoS2 on the other hand may stack more than one layer deep, which may cause flaking.
 
Daymmmm this is straight serious forum Talk right here lol

I didn't polish my sxles I just got the axles from dd4 hire they were polished already then I put one drop of oil on their and oh my lord the wheel by just flicking it rolled for ever lol wss amazing

results of my next kids races is wenesday of next week on the 5th
 
fireball said:
Daymmmm this is straight serious forum Talk right here lol

The prime number theorem (PNT) implies that the number of primes up to x is roughly x/ln(x), so if we replace x with 2x then we see the number of primes up to 2x is asymptotically twice the number of primes up to x (the terms ln(2x) and ln(x) are asymptotically equivalent). Therefore the number of primes between n and 2n is roughly n/ln(n) when n is large, and so in particular there are many more primes in this interval than are guaranteed by Bertrand's Postulate. So Bertrand's postulate is comparatively weaker than the PNT. But PNT is a deep theorem, while Bertrand's Postulate can be stated more memorably and proved more easily, and also makes precise claims about what happens for small values of n. (In addition, Chebyshev's theorem was proved before the PNT and so has historical interest.) The similar and still unsolved Legendre's conjecture asks whether for every n > 1, there is a prime p, such that n2 < p < (n + 1)2. Again we expect that there will be not just one but many primes between n2 and (n + 1)2, but in this case the PNT doesn't help: the number of primes up to x2 is asymptotic to x2/ln(x2) while the number of primes up to (x + 1)2 is asymptotic to (x + 1)2/ln((x + 1)2), which is asymptotic to the estimate on primes up to x2. So unlike the previous case of x and 2x we don't get a proof of Legendre's conjecture even for all large n. Error estimates on the PNT are not (indeed, cannot be) sufficient to prove the existence of even one prime in this interval.