Bad start

[agentp]

Just got in a replacement pre-cut car from being sent the wrong thing the first time and there is a 1/32" ridge from the router down the side of the car and across the rear wheel right where the axle inserts. The rear axles are canted and the ridge also goes across the non-DFW. I ordered this because I do not have the tools nor knowledge to prepare a car and we finished dead last in last years race. Can I sand this out? If I happen to not sand it at a perfect 90 degrees, will that make a difference?

Also, the pine is very yellow with wide grain similar to the Cub block from last year rather than a tight grain sugar pine.

Am I off to a bad start already?

 

[Quicktimederby]

A lot of times routers, saws, etc. will leave marks, ridges, and cuts. You should be able to sand it out with no problem, just depends on the depth. If it's no a perfect 90deg. it's not a big problem, get it as close as you can. Did you order the cut in the Sugar Pine wood?

 

[agentp]

A lot of times routers, saws, etc. will leave marks, ridges, and cuts. You should be able to sand it out with no problem, just depends on the depth. If it's no a perfect 90deg. it's not a big problem, get it as close as you can. Did you order the cut in the Sugar Pine wood?

There was just a big difference in the first car and the replacement car. The first car that was not what I ordered, was very tight grained and smooth (looked kind of like bass wood). It did not need to be sanded anywhere. My neighbor told me it was probably sugar pine or a high grade of pine. The replacement needs a lot of sanding (more than just the ridge) and a lot of work before painting. Just a little surprised at the vast difference.

Just got back from Lowe's and a guy there recommended using a 320 sanding block, but he said it would be a very difficult fix. His concern was sanding at the rear axle can possibly narrow the back and then I will have rear wheels riding the rail. He thought it would be impossible to fix and still have a rail rider narrowed 1/16" on the DFW. Guess I will give it a try this weekend, race is on February 1st.

 

[Crash Enburn]

Use craft (popsicle) sticks to build out the rear. They are ~1/16" thick.

 

[agentp]

Use craft (popsicle) sticks to build out the rear. They are ~1/16" thick.

I don't remember where it is posted, but John said never build up the rear. Not sure how I would ever get the correct angle on the pre-drilled, canted holes either.

 

[GravityX]

Just got in a replacement pre-cut car from being sent the wrong thing the first time and there is a 1/32" ridge from the router down the side of the car and across the rear wheel right where the axle inserts. The rear axles are canted and the ridge also goes across the non-DFW. I ordered this because I do not have the tools nor knowledge to prepare a car and we finished dead last in last years race. Can I sand this out? If I happen to not sand it at a perfect 90 degrees, will that make a difference?

Also, the pine is very yellow with wide grain similar to the Cub block from last year rather than a tight grain sugar pine.

Am I off to a bad start already?

If possible, a picture would help out tremendously to help determine the exact nature of the problem. Myself, I'm a visual person, as I would believe most people here are the same way. A picture may help us better serve you a solution.

 

[IAE Racing]

Post pic. Either sand down ridge or fill gouge with putty

 

[GravityX]

Use craft (popsicle) sticks to build out the rear. They are ~1/16" thick.

I don't remember where it is posted, but John said never build up the rear. Not sure how I would ever get the correct angle on the pre-drilled, canted holes either.

If you need to go this route. Pre-drill an axle hole in the popsicle stick, run an axle into the hole you just drilled and then attach the "extension" to the car using the axle as a guide into the existing axle hole. This would align things correctly.

 

[SoGone]

All I can comment on is the pine... In my spare time ("ha ha ") i like to build furniture and various wood projects. Sugar pine grain patterns have been varying a bit in the last year. This is due to cutting restrictions on this wood placed on the industries. So in order to keep up with the demand companies are putting out all types of "grades" of the wood. Also I have noticed even in a raw stock piece of sugar pine the grain pattern and color can vary. The SP that DD4H sells even if the grain is long it is still tight and will drill real straight. Unlike your standard scout block which is a "lack of a better term" loose grain and low grade wood. Maybe this helped have a good one.

 

[Guest]

Wood glue a toothpick in there. The wood musta chipped after drilling or got drilled regardless.

Either way it was probably meant to be the full dimension.

If it is on DFW it might be a good thing due to reduced friction.

The other fellas know better but it seems like a quick fix.

 

[Skippy Kicky]

This is just my opinion, but I think the ridge you are talking about is from sliding in the block of wood in silver bullet. You don't need to worry about adding material as you can sand to the debth of that groove and will still have the correct width for your rear wheels.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

This is just my opinion, but I think the ridge you are talking about is from sliding in the block of wood in silver bullet. You don't need to worry about adding material as you can sand to the debth of that groove and will still have the correct width for your rear wheels.

That is exactly what the problem is. The canted rear wheel contacts at the top of the hole. This is no issue at all, just make sure the front is more narrow than the rear.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Also, the shaped bodies are a premium pine and not a sugar pine. I make cars with them daily and they work just fine.