I still use my scroll saw to rip 1/2" off the kit block. It groans trying to cut through 1.75" but going slow gets the job done. I know the top isn't going to be exactly square but it is getting thinned down later on a belt sander anyway. I do route out my weight pockets before ripping it.
Band Saw trouble
- Thread starter rpenning1970
- Start date
I might have to try that DaveG!!!!!
My compound miter box would handle that length no problem!
beats the squigglies that I get from my scroll saw
My compound miter box would handle that length no problem!
beats the squigglies that I get from my scroll saw
Per the PM request, here is the picture. Sorry it is not really clear, it is buried in my garage but here is what I used.
It is a 1x10 or 1x12, with a 1x4 backing, two 2x6 scrap wood guides on the sides (It was what I had laying around) holding the block in place. Adjust your saw depth to not cut completely through the 1x10 as the 1st time I went through the board not thinking. The 1x4 back plate helps prevent the thin wedge from flying back from the spinning blade. I guess if you wanted to cut a wedge you could adjust the angle of the cut, but I was just doing planks.
I use a homemade jig in my table saw. It cuts 5/16" thick bodies. Has a pair of toggle clamps to hold the body so it can't move while you cut. The waste just drops away.
Years ago I received a design for a band saw "sled" that allowed Scouts to use a 9" band saw to cut wedge shaped cars without putting their appendages at risk. I just took a look and couldn't find it, but I think the concept is fairly simple. Rockler and others sell the guides to fit in a mitre slot, then you need a body holder and some angle adjustability. Most of all, you need the ability to hold the wood in place while your hands are elsewhere.
Great ideas guys ! Thanks for the pic Dave.
I don't care how the jigs look... I am helping a couple different kids with their cars, and I want things safe... for me and for them.. LOL
I don't care how the jigs look... I am helping a couple different kids with their cars, and I want things safe... for me and for them.. LOL
Table saw and this:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/820434/Micro-Jig-GRR-Ripper-System-Model-GR200.aspx
So much safer.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/820434/Micro-Jig-GRR-Ripper-System-Model-GR200.aspx
So much safer.
I have not had a problem using my table saw (Ridgid portable) to cut ~ 5/16" blanks - after removing the guard. I use a very thin push stick in the back and just about anything on the side, along with a feeler board, to position the block during the cut. This way I get 3 blanks out of a normal Scout sized block. If I want 1/4 blanks I need to use my zero clearance insert, otherwise the wood will get trapped at the end of the cut. Its worth getting the blade nicely squared before you start. Using a good blade on the table saw I can get very good flatness of the wood blanks, which I think is critical (and needs to be checked prior) to the drilling operation that follows.
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