Best Track?

The cap used in this application is just for noise filtering. If not using the mosfet it is not needed. Like you said - it is quite large.

I am goingt to build a new start gate for the scout track and eliminate the computer interface - and just use the pushbutton to activate the soleniod/start gate.

The curcuit is REAL simple then. A 12V power supply - a 12V solenoid or car door lock actuator - and a pushbutton to activate.

I do reccomend the diode across the soleniod revered biased (stripe or band towards the positive side) to shunt the voltage generated as the magnetic field the make the soleniod plunger move collapses. You will also need something to mount the circuit to and a plug/jack set for the power supply.

Note most everybody will have a suitable power supply around thier house already. Take a look at the block that plugs in for any of you electronics of your kids electonics. Each one will list the OUTPUT voltage. You want to find one in the 11-13v range. Likely a 9v on would work but I reccomend something closer to the 12V if possible.
 
5js said:
The cap used in this application is just for noise filtering. If not using the mosfet it is not needed. Like you said - it is quite large.

I am goingt to build a new start gate for the scout track and eliminate the computer interface - and just use the pushbutton to activate the soleniod/start gate.

The curcuit is REAL simple then. A 12V power supply - a 12V solenoid or car door lock actuator - and a pushbutton to activate.

I do reccomend the diode across the soleniod revered biased (stripe or band towards the positive side) to shunt the voltage generated as the magnetic field the make the soleniod plunger move collapses. You will also need something to mount the circuit to and a plug/jack set for the power supply.

Note most everybody will have a suitable power supply around thier house already. Take a look at the block that plugs in for any of you electronics of your kids electonics. Each one will list the OUTPUT voltage. You want to find one in the 11-13v range. Likely a 9v on would work but I reccomend something closer to the 12V if possible.

Oh yeah, the diode is definitely necessary. I used to work with electronics - soldering components on circuit boards - but that was many, many years ago and I've all but forgotten everything. I picked up a 12V 1A transformer on ebay for $4 and a 2.1mm DC panel jack at radioshack for $4 as well...thanks for the help! /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
DNA you can run 120 V just isolate your mounting bracket from the track. Either with plastic/rubber washers where the mounting bolt pass through the bracket ..Or use plastic bolt and nuts to mount the bracket found in the plumbing section at the hardware store or McMaster/Carr
 
Best Track is still the track to have. I'm sure when Steve from BT sees NPWDRL has all the premier racers from P**R he'll be on board. DO not have any reservations ordering from him ,,He's a real good guy
 
I just got done sourcing all of the components for 2 tracks. My practice wood track and the Pack's Best Track. The BT will be the easier one and the priority to get done.

Thanks again 5J's!

Rick
 
To 5js

Please send a copy of starting gate information

my way.

Thank You RUN-A-MUCK RACING

Danny Charles/images/boards/smilies/cool.gif
 
I got the car door lock solenoid from All Electronics. That solenoid has some range and power. I built the panel for the power jack, button, and solenoid. All this is left is getting the cotter pin and measuring out the mounting to the track. The aluminum angle has everything mounted and ready. Test run should be tonight. Using actual cars should happen on Friday night.