Best way to make Scout axles inspectable ??

[quadad]

I am going to help a young Scout with his 1st PWD build (fun !) this coming weekend (one day deal) and his district rules allow axle hole drilling, but want the entire length of the axle portion which not in the wheel bore to be visible. I have never had to deal with this before. Also, I won't be there for check-in, so I need a safe, reliable method for accomplishing this.

Arguing the rule is out of the question, so please, don't go there.

The two primary options I am considering are:
1) cutting new slots (~ 1/16" wide similar to original) at the desired axle location, filling with "clear" epoxy, waiting a day for it to really harden and then drilling as normal;
2) drilling holes as normal and then using a dremel and even thinner blade to expose the bottom (only) of the axle.

The first option I would prefer from the standpoint that I can most precisely cut using my table saw and miter gauge. However I have experimented so far with Permatex, 2-part, "crystal clear" epoxy and its not so crystal clear to me (have to drill yet). The 2nd option is attractive in that you "could" control the slope of the cut for the canted rears and it doesn't requrie the mess and time lag, but its the most difficult to setup.

What has proven to the most do-able and reliable for othes with this kind of requirement ? I am open to all options.

 

[Ryanh]

I have found drilling your axle holes where you want them and then drilling shallow holes in the bottom of the car to expose the nail heads works pretty good. Most council rules include that as an option as wll.

 

[Chief]

[font="times new roman, times, serif"]Oh boy! I feel your pain. We have to use the actual slots provided in the block. I would suggest using Loctite brand 2 part epoxy, it is pretty clear. However, I would not glue the slot first, I would drill my holes then put the slots in. Then I would install the axles and then do my tuning and once I was done with that I would then glue, and I know that some guys would not do that but it will ensure that the tuning does not get disturbed between your shop and the race. The Loctite brand I use is 5 minute epoxy and it seems to work pretty well. Best of luck[/font]

 

[Quicktimederby]

The best way I have found to accomplish this is to drill the holes like you normally would, hopefully using the silver bullet. After the holes are drilled in what ever location is permitted, use a t square and scribe a line on the bottom were the axle holes are. Once you do that take a hack saw blade and cut the line till you reach your holes, or use a band saw. It works prefect and will pass any inspection. Good luck!

I am going to help a young Scout with his 1st PWD build (fun !) this coming weekend (one day deal) and his district rules allow axle hole drilling, but want the entire length of the axle portion which not in the wheel bore to be visible. I have never had to deal with this before. Also, I won't be there for check-in, so I need a safe, reliable method for accomplishing this.

Arguing the rule is out of the question, so please, don't go there.

The two primary options I am considering are:
1) cutting new slots (~ 1/16" wide similar to original) at the desired axle location, filling with "clear" epoxy, waiting a day for it to really harden and then drilling as normal;
2) drilling holes as normal and then using a dremel and even thinner blade to expose the bottom (only) of the axle.

The first option I would prefer from the standpoint that I can most precisely cut using my table saw and miter gauge. However I have experimented so far with Permatex, 2-part, "crystal clear" epoxy and its not so crystal clear to me (have to drill yet). The 2nd option is attractive in that you "could" control the slope of the cut for the canted rears and it doesn't requrie the mess and time lag, but its the most difficult to setup.

What has proven to the most do-able and reliable for othes with this kind of requirement ? I am open to all options.

 

[Kinser Racing]

The best way I have found to accomplish this is to drill the holes like you normally would, hopefully using the silver bullet. After the holes are drilled in what ever location is permitted, use a t square and scribe a line on the bottom were the axle holes are. Once you do that take a hack saw blade and cut the line till you reach your holes, or use a band saw. It works prefect and will pass any inspection. Good luck!

I am going to help a young Scout with his 1st PWD build (fun !) this coming weekend (one day deal) and his district rules allow axle hole drilling, but want the entire length of the axle portion which not in the wheel bore to be visible. I have never had to deal with this before. Also, I won't be there for check-in, so I need a safe, reliable method for accomplishing this.

Arguing the rule is out of the question, so please, don't go there.

The two primary options I am considering are:
1) cutting new slots (~ 1/16" wide similar to original) at the desired axle location, filling with "clear" epoxy, waiting a day for it to really harden and then drilling as normal;
2) drilling holes as normal and then using a dremel and even thinner blade to expose the bottom (only) of the axle.

The first option I would prefer from the standpoint that I can most precisely cut using my table saw and miter gauge. However I have experimented so far with Permatex, 2-part, "crystal clear" epoxy and its not so crystal clear to me (have to drill yet). The 2nd option is attractive in that you "could" control the slope of the cut for the canted rears and it doesn't requrie the mess and time lag, but its the most difficult to setup.

What has proven to the most do-able and reliable for othes with this kind of requirement ? I am open to all options.

+1

Then after it's tuned use clear epoxy on the bottom of the car to hold them solid.They probably just want to see the nail point. Also, file the edges of the flat spots, that come from the point, where they meet the shaft of the nail. This usually has high spots and will loosen an axle hole real fast.

 

[quadad]

Thanks for the all the input. I waited to respond after seeing what you all had to say and doing some more experimenting. I am going forward with a mix of your input.

After cutting the block down, I am first drilling with the Silver Bullet (my evolution to that, and with that, is another story). Secondly, we (both) will use a hacksaw to cut a very thin (thinnner than BSA) slot to the axle bottom (which varies between the rears, DFW and raised axle). Third, I will run the board across my table saw, using a very thin kerf (actually, portable saw) blade, but only for about 1/2 the depth of the hacksaw cut. This will mimic the original slot (~ 1/16" or 1.6mm width) and offer a better view of the axle.

In my practiced view, I couldn't get a very good look at the axle shaft/tip with just the narrow hacksaw blade cut, so I am going this extra step. (Again, I can't take the risk of a reject in inspection since I wouldn't be there to help recover.) Then, after tuning, I will use a clear epoxy (thxs for the product suggestion), to mainly seal the first 1/2 to 2/3 of the axle shaft, again, emphasizing access to the tip. Unfortunately, if they want to stick to their exact rules, they say that the entire shaft has to be viewable (even if they really only care about the tip). (Not that someone couldn't buy finished axles with a tip ..., but again, not going there.)

And for Kinser's suggestion, yes, we have always filed the pointed edge of the axle flats. It's always been our first step with BSA axles, before we put that portion into a pin vise and I will have this Scout do the same. Now if I could only figure our the other reasons why our axles holes are sometimes more loose or tight than the norm for a given block ...

 

[W racing]

drill a hole or two from the top and glue through the holes to the axle.

 

[Chief]

[font="times new roman, times, serif"]Best of luck with that. Dont forget to get some piX of the little scouts car...Always like piX of cars!!!

[/font]

 

[quadad]

[font="times new roman, times, serif"]Best of luck with that. Dont forget to get some piX of the little scouts car...Always like piX of cars!!!

[/font]

Started and finished the build today - it was a blur in the middle of a small birthday party. A little more conservative build for the 1st timer racing on an unknown track than I did with my boys when they were Cubs. Here it is on my clearance test board with the traditional sprinkles of graphite all about (he called it "glitter").

 

[Chief]

[font="times new roman, times, serif"]Sweet! Looks fast![/font]

 

[Quicktimederby]

Great looking car! Those narrow body cars are a pain to get off the track! The nerves were always high when your green car had to be lifted off the track. I can see Mr. Chip's now......

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