Billy's Red Neck Issue With Crack Revealed, But He's Still Lookin' For A Fix

ratrodsrule1

ratrodsrule1

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Feb 23, 2015
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Gulfport Ms.
NO NOT THAT KIND, he's already "METHED" up enough. A real fix of an unwanted PWD car crack. He thinks he may have the answer but he's always been 1 tater shy of a 5 lb. bag. Check this cool product out Y'all !!

https://www.starbond.com/all-produc..._oOx-h9A6hEZHKYrEGc5uUNstzW_yHI8aApStEALw_wcB

What had happened was on a tear down of Billy's Granddaughter's "Carley's Intimidator" outfitted with the Earnhardt #3 he fount a crack with his fanger ( Southern for finger) fanger nail. If said crack does what cracks do It's curses for the Intimidator. The crack will open 1/16 when fanger nail force is applied. The "Micro" applicator tips, 8 shown in linkl, is what caught his eye. Any products better ? Yes/No ? If so, what please and thanks.......RRR
 
Usually if its in the wood where the rear axles are inserted, the car is rarely salvageable. You can make it roll, but it will probably not have the same speed it once had. For glue, I use Fastcap 2P-10: https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-2P-10-Super-Adhesive-Activator/dp/B0006IUWCC?th=1

It comes in different viscosities: thin, medium, thick, and gel. I use thin (like water) for painting fenders; thick (like school glue) for attaching plywood tops to bodies. It dries (full strength) in 30 to 60 seconds. With the activator, 10 seconds. A word of warning - it is VERY EASY to glue your fingers together if you are not careful, but its great for wood. You'll never have to worry about a repair made with this stuff.
 
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B_Regal Racing said:
Usually if its in the wood where the rear axles are inserted, the car is rarely salvageable. You can make it roll, but it will probably not have the same speed it once had. For glue, I use Fastcap 2P-10: https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-2P-10-Super-Adhesive-Activator/dp/B0006IUWCC?th=1

It comes in different viscosities: thin, medium, thick, and gel. I use thin (like water) for painting fenders; thick (like school glue) for attaching plywood tops to bodies. It dries (full strength) in 30 to 60 seconds. With the activator, 10 seconds. A word of warning - it is VERY EASY to glue your fingers together if you are not careful, but its great for wood. You'll never have to worry about a repair made with this stuff.
Click to expand...
Will def check it out bc I’ll have one shot at getting it right. Thanks Brother
 
B_Regal Racing said:
Post a picture of the car. Maybe I can duplicate it.
Click to expand...

Thanks BRR......Billy hopefully thinks he can make a proper repair with the super products available. This rig was a freak and running on a terribly compromised DFW axle and $4.99 junk graphite all around. Sometimes you just get one dialed in that performs past expectations and don't know if he wants to spend the day's pin pointing BB sized fishing weights and HOURS of under cutting the bottom by hand sanding to make the weight. Fortunately it was DEAD on 5 oz on a scale that would catch you @ 5.01. But if you really really.......really want to, i'll shoot you the specs but ONLY if you PM your address so Billy can send you a block and furnish a return shipping label....10-4 ??
 
Well dang I just posted a thread with some basic pics of it because the designers site is down. And this window wouldn't allow me the drop a pic for some reason but now it will (technology sucks at times). A friend JUST sent me a message from his phone because i thought he may have the specs and he did. Okay if you insist, when you ship it have the shipper call me @ 228-806-9257 so I can pay the postage. You don't have to do this but apparently your a man on a mission and words can't express the gratitude for your giving spirit.

We actually modified the design slightly and used only 2 main weight holes for tungsten and I spent hours at the kitchen table pin pointing BB sized lead weights and hours of sanding for a DEAD on 1" COM and DEAD on 5 oz on a scale that will catch you @ 5.01. To make the step to BASX i'd like a shorter COM so I'll leave the positioning of the Main weight holes up to your digression and experience. I will be using upgraded axles that need a #43 hole, canted rears, DFW and NDFW w/raised on the PASSENGER side please. I'm left handed LOL. I always shave 1/16 of DFW and taper the nose slightly and will be using the 2.4 gram BASX wheels.

I don't know anything of BASX vs AWANA wheels OD so if the WB needs to be slightly shortened go at it. A birdie told me your name is Ed....same here LOL. Ship to Eddie Klein C/O Performance Muffler and Truck Accessories, 14504 Dedeaux Rd. Gulfport Ms. 39503. That's my former shop, at home we're inundated with mail/package thievery. Just give me a thumbs up when its un it's way so I can let the shop guys know to be expecting. BTW you're apparently a family man. Curious as to how many little B Regal's you have ? Thanks a ton..........Eddie.......RRR
 

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Real quick question: do you need the FDW drilled for steer so you only need a straight axle in the front or do you have a bent axle for the FDW? Body is done. Pictures coming soon.
 
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B_Regal Racing said:
Real quick question: do you need the FDW drilled for steer so you only need a straight axle in the front or do you have a bent axle for the FDW? Body is done. Pictures coming soon.
Click to expand...
WoW That was fast......right side front raised, left side regular height for bent axle steer. Goodness Man you're something !! Thanks so much.......RRR
 
B_Regal Racing said:
Real quick question: do you need the FDW drilled for steer so you only need a straight axle in the front or do you have a bent axle for the FDW? Body is done. Pictures coming soon.
Click to expand...
BTW yesterday you mentioned something about a strong adhesive like super glue having a certain amount of flex would be nice. I found this late last night, check it out. shot an email should get a reply today with further info. Will forward it to you. https://www.google.com/url?q=http:/...563000&usg=AFQjCNEVLYOQrotwMfHkxAoqwerOuJ_6jw
 
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