Breaking the rules, Bending the rules, or 100% Legal?

Oops.

Sorry Hatch. I didn't mean to offend.

I congratulate you on your victories, and I don't doubt your hard work and attention to detail.

The fact that you are on this forum is testament.

The more I learn about this PWD stuff though, the more I am realizing that (with the exception of the highest level of the game), It is all about the wheels, the wheels, and the wheels. Oh, and the axles a bit too.

COM is great, alignment/ rail running probably more important than COM. John and QT and the other guys have more stats than you could possibly imagine on all the nuances. The big speed item is the wheels though.
 
Quote:Using the tungsten to get that COM back to 3/4". You just cant do that with hobbby shop weights.

I agree HatchAttack, the tungsten gives you a lot more to play with in-terms of getting the COM right. The cheap break-off weights make it difficult to get the weight you need toward the back of the cars. I had several scoutsbring me their cars this year and bring me those weights and I had to tell them they would be limited on their designs if they wanted to get the most out of those type of weights. Your way ahead the game.
Oh YA, can't remember if I said it or not. Welcome to the forum happy to have you.
 
Hey Hatch,

The guys are real sweethearts around here.

Me. I am just matter of fact.

Welcome to the forum and congrats again on the win.
 
Hatch-

Welcome to the Forum !!! Keep reading and asking those questions never be afraid to ask and say something right or wrong .... You will get an answer you need here... These guys are Great, Smart and willing to teach new racers.....

Papa V
 
Thanks for the warm welcome everyone.

Heres a question. Burnishing, thats the process of working graphite into the bore right? When I got the Nitros with the legendary prep or whatever it is, was this done by john already? Or was I supposed to do it? I also noticed that the outside of the hub where the axle head sits didnt seem to be polished. I guess this was something I was supposed to do myself as well? I'm going to have to pick up that dvd from John.
 
Before burnishing, did you do the bore polish steps 1 and 2? I was rereading the thread and didn't find that. Yes, that is another step you can take. It is also an option to order pre polished, if your short on time and long on cash. The bore prep step is defintly one the scout can help with My 5 year old daughter help with her car last year. If I read you post right, looks like you selected the option for legendary prep. In that case (I don't know what these look like cause I've never ordered that way) it already been done. there may be dull areas on the outside that you could polish with a dry soft cloth, (dry wax I'm guessing by my experience). Burnishing as read here on a lot of post is working graphite into the bore or onto contact surfaces. I usuasly just dump sone graphite in, drop axle in then spin. Some will use a fluffy pipe cleaner and spin in.
 
Yes I had the bore prep done by John. I didnt have time to practice bore polishing before the race and was afraid to mess up the nitros on my first attemp. I intend to order the bore polishing kit in a few weeks and practice on some spare wheels so that my son and I can do it ourselves next year.
 
I understand time. As far as where the axle head sits, It most likely had polish the polish there. A qtip end spun by hand will shine it up.
 
As far as not being able to get the COM 3/4 without tungsten:

2014_6.jpg
 
What type of material is that? Still doesn't look like anything that would be readily available at a hobby store. Most of the weights I see on cars in out pack are revell or worse.... Lots of large washers being used.
 
Here's a thread on shaping lead and some other weight options. Helping with a lot of kiss's cars each year, if the kids don't want to destroy there car or save for a later race, tungsten can get pretty pricey. $20 car times 10 cars. The cubes are a heck of lot easier to use. If you're using stck wheel base, there is plenty of room for a 1/4 to 5/16 think car. the weight might have to stick down on the underside some. For rear axle set all the way back, 5/16 to 3/8 and a 1/4 take a hollow body like sullivans.

http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/type-of-weight-options-6631592?highlight=shaping+lead
 
I'd have to check the rules again, but I think its clearly stated that for us lead is prohibited. I'll double check when I get home.