bsa wheels vs BASX

[MBRacing]

I sorted through and found what I think is the best set of wheels out of the box, smallest bore size, and seem to run the truest in a spin test. Is there much to be gained by going to the BASX wheel at this point? I know the tread is trued but it looks like that is about it.

Also how do you cone the outer hub? I have seen the tool to remove the step but not to cone it?

 

[5KidsRacing]

A lathe turned wheel (BASX) will easily beat the best non-lathed BSA wheel out of the box....

Take that step removal tool and file an angle on it and then cut out the second step.

 

[ngyoung]

The stock BSA wheels already have a coned inner hub. The BASX wheels are mold matched and the outer tread is lathed true to the wheel bore. Just that can be a pretty huge difference from stock. What is often the case is even if you get mold matched wheels that give you the best chance that all the wheel bore diameters are the same, out of those some may be out of round from the wheel bore. Will it be a huge jump? DD4H claims:

• Speed gain over stock wheels- .01 seconds average gain or about 1/3 of a car length

Removing and coning the outer hub step adds even more. For me personally I ran a stock BSA parts car at NPWDRL and got 3.027 with a good wiggle. I discovered a flaw in my car body and switched to a new body for the nationals but that was a longer track but doing the math conversion I think it would have ran around 3.02 as well. I went to BASX and 92 axles after that with the same body as nationals and the next regular 42' event I ran 3.0001.

 

[MBRacing]

How far off is the outer hub usually? Or is the truing the tread usually make a bigger difference?

This is for a BSA race, so I want to stick to pretty much stock but my thought is this.... the rules state you can remove mold marks from wheels, if I can go to the scout shop and buy the hub tool and wheel shaver and lightly true up the tread then buying a lathed wheel is no different just a different process. Its the same BSA wheel that could have come out of anyones box. I don't want to blatanty push the rules and lighten them but don't want to give anything up either. For the most part our pack sticks to the 'out of the box' rules or if they are buying lightened wheels its not showing.

 

[5KidsRacing]

The outer hub isn't off, but I would remove the second step and for a BSA race just make it flat and don't worry about coning...

Yes, truing the tread will make the bigger difference.... A shaver is hard to use and takes a lot of practice, but it will work for what you are doing. You will be happy to know that you will be able to sell the shaver on Ebay easily and for probably about half of what you bought it for....

 

[MBRacing]

I haven't acutally bought any of the tools, I just meant if I or anyone can go in and buy them and true the wheel up then I don't feel bad about buying a lathed BASX wheel to run in the same races. different process, same end result...roughly.

Different on the axles, I cant make myself buy the oversized SS axles because there isn't a way to create them from the box kit. No doubt we are likely racing against them though. Maybe I need to stop fooling myself and forget about it....

 

[5KidsRacing]

I understand/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif your answer is yes, you can create a more concentric wheel with the pro-shaver and enough practice.

If you are going to stick with the stock BSA looking axles then go with the aftermarket BSA replacements like DD's or if that doesn’t seem fair to you than at least buy a set of BSA Chinese wheels and use the axles for you car.... but don't use the wheels/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif