BSA wheels

[BlewBYu]

For races that have to use the official BSA wheels, what mold numbers have been the best for you? Which ones should be avoided? Thanks

 

[Cooper]

I know in my bag of bad wheels, there are more 12s than anything. That's just based on spinning them and tossing if they wobble.

 

[Vitamin K]

I don't go by mold number. I know that Maximum Velocity maintains a list of mold numbers that they test, but all that it can tell you is the probability of getting a good wheel from that mold, not whether or not your wheel is good. I use a concentricity gauge that employs a dial indicator to tell me how much runout a given wheel has. I also do a spin test to see how much wobble/chatter the wheel gives me.

Would be interested in hearing what other methods of wheel evaluation are employed. I know some folks use pin gages to test for the optimal bore size.

 

[Crash Enburn]

When we were still in the BSA, I'd go to the Scout shop and build my own tube of wheels by scavenging others. Max-V's tests showed that mold #s 2, 3, 8, and 15 were consistently the best. I'd seek out those numbers, then spin each on an axle, looking for any wobbles. I'd take the ones that seemed best.

If you get a turned wheel from DD4H, you don't need to worry about mold numbers. It really only applies to the out-of-the-box scout builds.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Constantly changing.

 

[TRE]

There are mold numbers that are junk even after being lathed

 

[B_Regal Racing]

If you get a turned wheel from DD4H, you don't need to worry about mold numbers. It really only applies to the out-of-the-box scout builds.

+1

If you buy from DD4H, the only thing I try to do is match the bore size, but if the wheel runs fast, then it does. I do not try to over-think it. BASX wheels are only $12, so it is not a big expense.