I feel pretty good about the whole pwd build but I always feel like my graphite process needs work. Could someone please explain the process of burnishing graphite? I thought I understood but I can never seem to get the wheels to spin for up to 20 seconds like I have heard. Appreciate any feedback or help!
Burnishing Graphite
- Thread starter Ken Hurley
- Start date
As far as I've discovered, there are three basic methods to burnishing, the goal is to apply layers of graphite to the wheel bore before racing.
I don't think you get enough graphite with the pipecleaner, but it creates an even thin coating.
The QTip method seems destructive to the wheel bore.
I'm afraid that rolling the graphite into the bore will create lumps.
My graphite process also needs help!
- Use a fluffy pipecleaner to spin graphite into the bore
- Use a Paper QTip stick or other snug fitting applicator to push graphite into the bore
- Use a spare polished nail, or pin gauge while rolling wheel to press roll graphite into bore
I don't think you get enough graphite with the pipecleaner, but it creates an even thin coating.
The QTip method seems destructive to the wheel bore.
I'm afraid that rolling the graphite into the bore will create lumps.
My graphite process also needs help!
If you use lightened wheels, I don't think the 20 second rule is a valid test, lighter wheels also means less rotational energy, so faster light wheels will not spin as long on their own.
For these reasons and more, I prefer oil. But I am forced to use graphite in my council, so blah.....
Studio 35 Qtips from Walgreens.
I use the thick blue paper towels like you can get at an auto parts store. Put a pile of graphite
in one spot on the towel. Chuck the Q-tip up in the drill. Squeeze the spot with graphite against
the Q-tip and spin it. Q-tip will be black.
Then slowly run the wheel back and forth over it.
I use the thick blue paper towels like you can get at an auto parts store. Put a pile of graphite
in one spot on the towel. Chuck the Q-tip up in the drill. Squeeze the spot with graphite against
the Q-tip and spin it. Q-tip will be black.
Then slowly run the wheel back and forth over it.
Hold the wheel in your hand, face up, with a finger covering the hub on the backside. Fill the bore with graphite. Take an axle, and start pushing it into the bore (as though you were about to mount it). In a quick motion, push the axle through and turn the wheel over so the wheel is now resting on the head of the axle. Spin. Add more graphite. Spin. Insert the axles into the car, add more graphite. Spin. Ad infinitum.
At this point, your wheels should be able to spin for at least 20 seconds.
Then sit back and marvel at the mess that graphite has created. (You can clean graphite off a shiny paint job using WD40 or olive oil)
At this point, your wheels should be able to spin for at least 20 seconds.
Then sit back and marvel at the mess that graphite has created. (You can clean graphite off a shiny paint job using WD40 or olive oil)
Thanks Civil War and Pacfan. I had not tried the studio 35 qtip step yet. Did the other items. Fyi using standard BSA wheels that I mold matched and polished with novus #2. Only doing that because I didn't want to purchase any wheels for the pack race with a wood track. Son is a bear and has done well at pack both years but we are still trying to place at District and Council. We are in the Mid America Council.
The Tamiya 87104 swab used after polishing the bore is snug enough to burnish without damaging the bore.
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