Burnishing
- Thread starter Black Fox
- Start date
I've got CDO. It's like Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, but in alphabetical order. As it should be.
- Nov 24, 2011
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I think it may be being overdone. Just burnish it once and you will be good, a couple of minutes max. If you keep at it for to long you'll lose the benefits you're trying to gain. More isn't always better. I hope this helps. Good luck! /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif
Ok I see. Some said put on a movie or until you're tired. I took that as 2 to 3 hours. So maybe 10 minutes for each wheel and add graphite 3 to 5 times during that period? Just trying to get a idea how long and how frequently I should graphite each wheel.
I understand that that after a certain point you have maximized your benefit and additional time won't improve anything. But since I'm new to burnishing I don't know where that point is.
I understand that that after a certain point you have maximized your benefit and additional time won't improve anything. But since I'm new to burnishing I don't know where that point is.
I only spent a few minutes on each wheel. I would only add a little more graphite after you have installed your wheels and axles on the car.Black Fox said:
- Nov 24, 2011
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Yes, 2-3 minutes a wheel maximum. If it were me and it's not, I would probably keep it under a minute. Good luck! /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif
When doing graphite, your spin time is an accurate measure of friction. Burnish, test spin x sec. repeat until the spin time is maxed out. Each person might spin with different force, but you would like to get over 25 sec. spin time and after you do a good job of burnishing- spin time will stay at some level until you improve polish on axle, post treatment on axle, or go all the way back to square one with bore polish. All this does not work with oil, but if one is stuck on oil, go back and see if the graphite spin times are super good, if not- find your problem with using graphite then use those improvements on your oil process.
No graphite, polished axle but no spray, typically 6 sec. You will not get better than 30 sec unless you are superman. About the best is COF of 0.08.
No graphite, polished axle but no spray, typically 6 sec. You will not get better than 30 sec unless you are superman. About the best is COF of 0.08.
TX Chemist
That's very good info. It helps a lot. My son's wheels are spinning about 18-19 sec. We sanded the wheel down and they are pretty thin and are 1/3 lighter than your average BSA wheels but they are still stock wheels and all modifications were done by hand.
We just polished the bore with graphite and a Q-Tip style stick. (Didn't have time to buy a proper polishing solution. Then brunished the wheel using a polished Pine Car single axle (8,000 grit) for a minute or two. But after burnishing the time actually dropped a couple of seconds. I used the Q-Tip again and the time improved. We added some graphite spun a few times. So we are about 18-19 sec.
Also the axles were polished to 8,000 grit and polished with Pledge. If there is anything else you can suggest to improve time. Please let me know.
Thanks for all your help.
That's very good info. It helps a lot. My son's wheels are spinning about 18-19 sec. We sanded the wheel down and they are pretty thin and are 1/3 lighter than your average BSA wheels but they are still stock wheels and all modifications were done by hand.
We just polished the bore with graphite and a Q-Tip style stick. (Didn't have time to buy a proper polishing solution. Then brunished the wheel using a polished Pine Car single axle (8,000 grit) for a minute or two. But after burnishing the time actually dropped a couple of seconds. I used the Q-Tip again and the time improved. We added some graphite spun a few times. So we are about 18-19 sec.
Also the axles were polished to 8,000 grit and polished with Pledge. If there is anything else you can suggest to improve time. Please let me know.
Thanks for all your help.
- Nov 24, 2011
- 3,903
- 30
- 48
- 13
Yes, lighter have less inertia which gets shorter spins, { except those bearing wheels go forever} and if you have not first polished the bore and then waxed it as I think you are saying, that is about all you will get out of it- at least you know when you reach a limit for your present process.
To back up this thread one step:
How would one hold the wheel to do this? I am picturing putting my index finer over the the inside hub, putting the polishing rod into the bore and then filing the space between the rod and bore with graphite. Do use use a twisting motion with the other hand to grind the graphite into the bore?
Also you would use only large flake pure graphite (nothing with moly) right? Which brands.
stoback
How would one hold the wheel to do this? I am picturing putting my index finer over the the inside hub, putting the polishing rod into the bore and then filing the space between the rod and bore with graphite. Do use use a twisting motion with the other hand to grind the graphite into the bore?
Also you would use only large flake pure graphite (nothing with moly) right? Which brands.
stoback
Old thread I know but I save all the good ones. I burnish all my wheel bores with a polished rod and then buff it with a pipe cleaner. I do this because of old Hodges logic. I'm messing up aren't I? I should just burnish and go straight to installing shouldn't I?
No need to polish a burnishing. That'll remove some of the burnish you put on. Burnish and install.
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