Cant and effect on wheels touching track

[Tekcor1]

I just received a copy of our rules this year. These are the rules that pertain to wheels and axles:

3.4 Wheels and Axles
The car shall roll on the wheels from the kit. The wheels shall turn about the axle nails from the kit. The axle nails shall be firmly affixed to the wood of the car body and may be glued into place. Wheel treatment (hub and tread smoothing and polishing) may not result in substantial removal of mass or in reducing the wheel width from the original kit wheels. Wheels may be sanded and polished but may not be machined to a beveled condition, the "BSA" logo should remain untouched on the wheel face and visible to the inspectors, and the portion of the wheel surface that contacts the track must remain parallel to the axle. Axles may not be altered in any way except for polishing. The following may NOT be used in conjunction with the wheels or axles: hubcaps, washers, inserts, sleeves, bearings, springs.

So does this rule out running canted wheels? From my understanding of canting, the axle holes are drilled like this for the rear /---- which would put only the edge of the wheel in contact with the track. Do I have a correct understanding of canting? And if so, with this rule in place (the portion of the wheel surface that contacts the track must remain parallel to the axle.)

My second question is in regard to drilling axle holes. Since I don't think I can have canted axles, what are people's experiences with this tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinewood-Derby-PRO-Driller-Tool/dp/B00AHNS5HK
I have a drill press, but it's really old and I'm not confident that it will drill a perfectly straight parallel hole. If not this one, any other suggestions?

 

[Kinser Racing]

This is the fixture you want to drill axle holes.

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/The-Silver-Bullet-T-BLOCK.htm

 

[Tekcor1]

Thanks. I've seen several posts from people recommending the silver bullet. The problem is I'm not confident that my really old drill press (probably 40 years old) is square, in which case the Silver Bullet wouldn't do me much good. I don't really want to spend $100 for a silver bullet and a new drill press.

 

[HMH Racing]

This is the fixture you want to drill axle holes.

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/The-Silver-Bullet-T-BLOCK.htm

+1
If the rules allow I would also move the rear axle holes back. Our rules are little strict with the "canting" of wheels. Our first year I drilled them using the SB but I used a different pin so they were not angled as much. We had no problems at check in. Last year since we were going to run in the Mid America race we drilled with the normal pin and still didn't have any problems at check in. A lot of packs make rules then have no idea how to enforce or what to look for. If you can find an experienced racer/adult in your pack/council, ask them about rules and "INTERPETATION" .

 

[Crash Enburn]

In answer to your original question, I don't see anything in that subset of rules that would disallow running canted wheels. The tread would remain parallel to your bores.

I don't see anything about number of wheels touching. If you are not required to run all four wheels touching, drill one front wheel slightly higher than the other so you are only running three wheels.

"Axles may not be altered in any way except for polishing." makes it sound like you cannot intentionally bend your front axle to make it a rail-runner. If that is the case, I would suggest drilling your DFW (Dominant Front Wheel) for a slight positive cant (the rears being negatively canted) and perhaps even with an intentional non-perpendicular drill job such that the DFW turns the car away from itself slightly (ideally, the car would turn a total of 4" over an 8' run, so this is a very slight angle).

Alternatively, you could drill perpendicularly and then "adjust" ( /images/boards/smilies/wink.gif ) the wheel's angle such that you are steering a bit...

If you determine that you can bend the axle, drill straight, and then rotate your bent axle to achieve the steering and the positive canting.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

As far as the table squareness goes, I think you'll find that the table does not have to be "perfectly" square, but only close; however, you will need the use of a make shift fence so that whatever error is in your table is applied in the exact opposite direction on the otherside of the car. While it sounds complicated, its not. Search the forums here and you will find plenty of information on this, including pictures. It will also help you drill canted holes in either the positive or negative direction. Crash gave you a lot of good information, all of whih can be done with the Bullet.

Watch this video; it should get you on your way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlwQfL0cOiE

As a side note, the slilver bullet can help you square your table up.

 

[Kinser Racing]

If your drill press is that old you may be surprised how good it might be. I'd rather have an old one than a new cheapie, the tolerances of some of the older manufactured tools was much better than today.

 

[HurriCrane Racing]

Still a great video!

 

[Tekcor1]

I bit the bullet so to speak and bought the Silver Bullet today. I could justify the cost since it went on sale. Thanks for everyone's input. Now to see how square my drill press is and go from there!