Canting ndfw

Feb 4, 2016
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When making a very thin car does anyone lift and cant the ndfw. I had been told you want a minimum of 1/8 difference between dfw and ndfw but thinking about doing a super thin car and wondering how much to cant if I only have 1/16 difference from side to side
 
I dont think you read that here. If it is riding the rail like it should you won't rub. If you get wiggles it is going to touch regardless. Now the gap you have between the two front wheels, most try to keep it pretty tight without risking pinching the rail. That way if you do get wiggles it wont wander too far off line. The cars that do the 45 degree bend have a guide pin to keep the car from coming off the track.
 
Don't cant to the DFW too far to keep the NDFW off the track. The sharp angle will cause the flutes on the outside of the wheel to run on the track. It won't just make it loud but it will slow you down. That is, unless your wheels have the fluting removed.
 
Cramjet said:
Don't cant to the DFW too far to keep the NDFW off the track. The sharp angle will cause the flutes on the outside of the wheel to run on the track. It won't just make it loud but it will slow you down. That is, unless your wheels have the fluting removed.
Not really concerned with canting the dfw. Just the ndfw. Have a block from jewkes just wondering if the pin with it will be enough to get the ndfw up
 
I'm always faster the more cant I run, fluting or no fluting (not completely sure why, but I believe its because you roll over bad joints as opposed to sliding across them). Its whatever I can squeeze through the wheel bore.

As far as the ndfw, I have not ever canted that. recently, I have stopped raising it as well (and just drill it at the same height as the dfw). if you are running enough dfw cant, it will raise the front of the car enough so the ndfw clears.